At the Chaîne d’ancre Exhibition, Hermès’ Creative Anchor Becomes Precious

In 1937, during a stroll along the Normandy coast, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to the son of Hermès’ founder Thierry Hermès) had his eyes drawn to the anchor chains keeping the moored vessels in place. He so was inspired by the simplicity of the stud link design — a bisected oval whose centre pin increases strength — that he fashioned a silver bracelet from it a year later. The Chaîne d’ancre has since become a recurring graphic element in many Hermès objects, with creative director of jewellery Pierre Hardy putting fresh twists on the motif.

In its latest iterations, the nautical chain becomes precious: in white or rose gold, pavé-set with diamonds, or embellished with a spectacular centre stone. On the Multichaînes necklace and bracelet, the Chaîne d’ancre is stacked and commingled with different link designs, while on the Danaé necklace it is glorified as an emblem. The links appear delicate or imposing, with a simple change in scale.

Hardy also plays with different forms, turning the chain into an unexpected ear cuff, or stretching the link into a double ring that can be worn on two or three fingers. The most surprising is the minaudière, where the Chaîne d’ancre is wrapped around itself to form a little Sacs bijoux. For something that has been around for over 80 years, there are still plenty of original styles to be found.

Hermès Chaîne d'ancre Exhibition

Hermès Singapore Liat Towers, Level 4

541 Orchard Road, Singapore 238881

27 February to 3 March