Fashion

Marni Fall/Winter 2017-2018

The house’s new creative director demonstrates an affinity with its founder’s eclectic tastes
clothing apparel person human coat overcoat

With October’s announcement that Consuelo Castiglioni was leaving Marni – the brand she founded in 1994 – Milan Fashion Week lost one of its most distinctive voices, a fearless proponent of dressing for pleasure and burning the rulebook.

Fortunately, Francesco Risso, formerly of Prada and the house’s new creative director, appears more than up to the task of continuing the Marni legacy. The signature man-repelling silhouettes and kooky costume jewellery were evident throughout Risso’s debut collection, though the designer inserted some of his own DNA into the mix: recognisable Prada-isms like anatomical seaming and 70's style, kitschy geometric jacquards added a new dimension to Marni’s visual universe.

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