Fendi Strikes A Balance Between Soft And Strong Femininity For Fall 2020
As one of a mere handful of women at the top of a male-dominated industry, it’s safe to say Silvia Venturini Fendi knows a thing or two about female power. The Fendi Fall 2020 show served as proof of that. Exploring the dichotomy between strength and sweetness, restraint and romance, austerity and sensuality, Venturini Fendi articulated her subversive vision of soft power with a collection worthy of the modern femme fatale.
The show took cues from the controversial 1975 film Maîtresse, which told the story of the tumultuous relationship between a small-time criminal and a professional dominatrix, and showcased costumes designed by the late Karl Lagerfeld – especially poignant given that the show took place almost exactly a year following the death of the icon and longtime Fendi collaborator.
Boudoir met boardroom in demure silhouettes with cinched waists and knee-skimming hemlines, given a touch of kink with sheer panels and bonded leather elements. Dramatic plays on volume contrasted super puffed sleeves with hints of corseting on flannel coats and blazers and velvet dresses, exuding a clandestine sensuality that wouldn’t look out of place in a film noir classic, while satin and lace lingerie styles with bustier and fringe details were coquettish but still chic. In contrast to the bright and buoyant prints of the previous season, Fall 2020 was marked by a relatively understated palette of blush pink, black, grey, and earth tones, although flashes of buttercup yellow and sorbet orange occurred, as did leopard and paisley motifs.
Elbow-length evening gloves, gartered pumps, fishnet socks, and headbands worn curiously upside down rounded out the wardrobe of the Fendi femme fatale, along with updated iterations of the signature Baguette and Peekaboo bags, and an extra-large shopping tote. A collaboration with London-based Chaos, best known for its celebrity-approved phone cases and tech accessories, featured dainty gold mesh phone pouches, FF minaudières shaped like retro cigarette lighters, branded AirPods cases, scribble pen earrings, and other smart (in all senses) sundries.
Underscoring the powerful femininity of the collection, Fendi put inclusivity front and centre on the catwalk with a diverse cast of women, which included for the first time ever plus-sized models Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve, in addition to mature models like Liya Kebede, Carolyn Murphy, and Karen Elson, and runway favourites Kaia Gerber, the Hadid sisters, Vittoria Ceretti, and Rianne van Rompaey.
See all the looks in the Fendi Fall 2020 collection below:
