9 New Menswear Designers Hitting the Runways In London, Milan, And Paris
Throwing one’s hat into the ring during the fashion month melée is no small feat. For some, it’s a long road of apprenticing under the greats — Fendi, Kim Jones, and Marc Jacobs among them — while for others, it’s a tactical post-grad venture. Here, we’ve selected nine of our favourites, who are slated to make a name for themselves on the menswear circuit. Predictably, London remains a breeding ground for newbies, while Paris and Milan demand a bit more experience, but one thing’s for certain, they’re all finding their own creative ways to crack the code.
LONDON
After almost a decade spent under the wing of Kim Jones, designing menswear collections for Louis Vuitton and Dior, and a couple of glitzy consulting gigs with Kanye West and Supreme to boot, Edward Crutchley has struck out fully on his own. In the process, he’s nabbed not one, but two Woolmark Prizes for his skilled manipulation of textiles and eye for maximalism with studied restraint.
With kudos from Queen Elizabeth II and Nicolas Ghesquiere under her belt, this young designer is committed to affecting social change by partnering with a new charity each season. This time around, the LVMH Prize finalist will be repurposing waste from the publishing industry in collaboration with Hachette UK publishing and The Mobile Library Charity, which will receive 20% of all proceeds from collection sales.
The season marks the first official showing for Jordan Luca founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, although thanks to their unmistakably “capital-F fashion” designs, the duo already counts 10 Corso Como, L’Éclaireur, and Harvey Nichols as loyal stockists.
Fresh out of The University of Westminster’s Menswear MA Programme, this Dublin native is taking on her first solo presentation to highlight her often-monochromatic looks, which could easily find a home in both the underground scene and the high street.
At just 28 years old, this recent Central Saint Martins MA Fashion programme graduate turned heads last season with his expert tailoring topped with dramatic, moulded shoulders. This season, he’s expected to offer a twist on the same styles.
Designed by Priya Ahluwalia, this eco-friendly label nabbed an H&M Design Award last year for its masterful repurposing of second hand and deadstock clothing, chock-full of references toward the designer’s Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots.
MILAN
Although he’s no stranger to the runways — he’s presented his eponymous womenswear collection over 27 seasons and also designs accessories for Fendi — this LVMH-backed designer will be making his second foray into menswear with a runway show held in Milan. With his womenswear and accessories fans ranging from Rihanna to Beyoncé, expect the star power to be out in full force.
PARIS
Born and raised in San Francisco, Spencer Phipps cut his teeth with the greats. There was a stint with Marc Jacobs in New York, and later with Dries van Noten in Antwerp as the brand’s first menswear designer. Now, the designer, who also counts himself an expert rock climber and outdoorsman, is merging his two passions under Phipps. The label is equal parts Patagonia and Prada and has earned rave reviews thus far, garnering an LVMH Prize nomination last year.
Born in Iraq, raised in Sweden, and now showing in Paris for their third outing, brother-sister duo Dilan and Lezan Lurr have honed their global worldview into Namacheko. Since their first collection, which was inspired by Iraqi bridalwear, the two have remained on the shortlist for bright young talent coming out of the Parisian fashion scene.
