Van Cleef & Arpels' heritage director talks about how the past influences the present

Lise Macdonald has always loved museums. She spent several years at the École du Louvre — the famed institution’s prestigious and highly-competitive school — emerging with a master’s degree in museology, with a specialisation in Old European Master Paintings. Then came stints at several museums around the world, including a posting at UNESCO, and at Singapore’s own ArtScience Museum, before she finally joined Van Cleef & Arpels in 2017 as its heritage and exhibition director.

And at the Maison, she found plenty of material to work with. To comb through Van Cleef & Arpels’ archives and story is to get a glimpse of world history and the evolution of style and culture: From the appointment of Renée Puissant as the Maison’s Creative Director in 1926 — a move which marked a shift for women in the industry — to the Maison’s much-vaunted collaboration with acclaimed ballet choreographer George Balanchine in 1967, the French jeweller has marked many milestones in its 116 years of existence.

Macdonald’s latest project pays tribute to that rich history. Held at the Marina Bay Sands Expo in February, ‘Poetry of Time’ was a sprawling exhibition that gathered together a wealth of pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels’ treasury.

For Macdonald — who lived in Singapore for close to a decade — being able to present the exhibition here was an especially joyous experience. “Even though I’m now based in Paris, I’ve in fact never truly left Singapore,” she quips. “I live with the country in my heart every day — it’s a great joy and honour to be back with Poetry of Time, and it’s wonderful to continue transmitting history, craftsmanship, and beauty.”

In ‘The Poetry of Time’, the exhibit was split into four distinct zones, each with its own theme. What are the stories behind each theme, and how do they tie in to the Maison’s story?

Firstly, love has inspired Van Cleef & Arpels since its foundation. Through the decades, our Maison gave birth to iconic pieces evoking love through motifs echoing Paris, or featuring lovebirds and hearts; more recently, there was the Pont des Amoureux.

The enchanted world of fairies and representation of feminine figures, such as ballerinas, have also been a great source of inspiration since the 1940’s. In fact, these feminine figures appeared in a period of international uproar and were symbols of luck and hope for better days.

Another emblematic theme: Nature, comprising the stars and astronomy. In the enchanted garden of Van Cleef & Arpels, a number of jewels are inspired by the world of fauna and flora, and embody the idea of movement and transformation. The floral theme, and all of its constantly evolving versions, has inspired many creations: Peonies, poppies, camellias, roses, natural bouquets — as have the animals, both real and imagined). This inspiration continues today in all of Van Cleef & Arpels’ collections.

How did you select which pieces would be displayed at The Poetry of Time?

The exhibition is meant as a dialogue between contemporary creations, skilled and unique craftsmanship, different themes of inspiration of the Maison, and references to the past. The selection has been carefully done by the teams involved in the project, in dialogue with one another to transmit to the audience a sense of enchantment, beauty and understanding of the crafts involved in the process of creating these exceptional pieces.

As Van Cleef & Arpels’ Heritage Director, you have a unique insight to how the brand’s design sensibilities have evolved over the years. What are some of the pivotal design motifs in the Maison’s history?

The creations of Van Cleef & Arpels have indeed been marked by their times, and reflect the spirit of their time. They have marked the arts and decorative arts, more particularly across the 20th century. But they have also pushed the boundaries of creations to a new level. Creations patented by our Maison, such as the Mystery setting, the Minaudière, the Passe-Partout — to name a few — are examples of this extraordinary craftsmanship and modern approach to jewellery creations.