The founder of Singapore's only vintage jewellery store tells us what makes a work special
Revival Vintage Jewels' founder, Brenda Kang, explains why it's not always about big name brands or the largest diamonds.
Brenda Kang spent 15 years working in Christie's — the famed auction house where precious works of art and jewellery are routinely sold for eye-watering sums — so it's no surprise that she's developed a keen eye for spotting exceptional works. But for Kang, who now runs Singapore's only vintage jewellery store, fine pieces aren't always about big name brands or the highest carat weight: "It's about collecting jewellery like you would collect art," she says.
"I don't look for specific brands," she continues. "I define vintage jewellery as a curated selection that has age to it, but has an enduring interest due to its high quality, design, or importance in jewellery history or provenance."
As the founder of Revival Vintage Jewels, Kang has spent the last eight years scouring the globe for these exceptional pieces. And she's assembled quite the collection, ranging from pieces like Cartier's rare Free Bird brooch — created by Jeanne Toussaint after the end of the Second World War — and a stunning pair of earrings wrought from restored Roman micro mosaics by German jeweller Hemmerle.
Kang doesn't play favourites. She's partial to pieces from famous jewellers (she calls all of Jean Schlumberger's creations for Tiffany & Co. "iconic and timeless", and is a fan of "nearly everything vintage VCA") as well as creations from independent artists; at a recent exhibition, titled 'Master Jewellers of the 21st Century', Kang put the spotlight squarely on creations from lesser-known jewellers.
She says: "These independent jewellers may have different approaches to designing and producing jewellery, but they are similar to established jewellery houses in one way — they can turn diamonds or gemstones into enduring, wearable works of art, ones treasured by generations of collectors."
How do you select — and find — the pieces that you stock in Revival?
I source my jewellery from private collectors, estate jewellery dealers and from auctions around the world. My preference is fine quality jewellery: Ideally, signed pieces that are wearable and stylish, that take you from day to night.
I look for jewels that are timeless and that I feel can hold value over time. I love pieces with a strong design or brand DNA, pieces that are well made and that stand apart from the offerings you might see in a regular retail jewellery store.
How do you define what vintage jewellery is?
I would define vintage jewellery as a curated selection of jewellery with age to it, but with an enduring interest due to its high quality and design, or importance in jewellery history or provenance.
You spent 15 years at Christie's. How did that influence or shape the way you view jewellery?
I was lucky to have had a chance to see some truly special collections during my time in Christie's New York, Paris and Geneva. From Ellen Barkin, Doris Duke, Ralph Esmerian, Elizabeth Taylor — and many more names which I can't reveal.
Those wonderful collections, the best of the best, trained my eyes to look for quality over quantity, for the best pieces will stand the test of time no matter what. It's not just about big gemstones and diamonds, or the usual big jewellery houses only — it is collecting jewellery like you would collect art.
Understanding smaller jewellery houses that don't exist in the market but are still very sought after, for example, Suzanne Belperron, Pierre Sterlé, Rene Boivin, Lacloche. It's buying a little bit of history that you can wear and in return it also helps you view contemporary jewellery in a different way.
You have quite a few classic pieces from specific brands, especially Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. Why these brands in particular?
I don't look for only specific brands in particular, but I am drawn to high quality workmanship, great design, collectibility, and wearability. If a piece ticks these boxes and if we have a chance to buy at the right price for stock, we wouldn't hesitate.
What are the pieces and motifs that you think are truly timeless with these brands?
With Tiffany & Co., all Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti pieces I think are rather iconic and timeless. Van Cleef & Arpels' mystery set jewels, animal brooches, Ludo Hexagone, Zip necklace... Actually, nearly everything vintage VCA, I think, is pretty timeless.
How do you decide which independent artist-jewellers to stock in your boutique?
Jewellers that possess a strong, individualistic point of view, a consistent recognisable style, a captivating narrative, who are able to capture a mood of our moment in time, through an intensely personal creative expression — and most importantly, the finest or often unconventional materials and superb and ingenious craftsmanship.
Revival contrasts independent artists-jewellers with pieces from internationally established houses. Why is that?
Our recent 'Master Jewellers of the 21st Century Event' was a rare opportunity for local collectors to see and learn about these highly collectible rare jewellery from independent jewellers such as JAR, Hemmerle, Bhagat and FORMS.
These independent jewellers and established jewellery houses may have different approaches to designing and producing jewellery, but are similar in that they have qualities and characteristics in each piece that can turn diamonds or gemstones into an enduring, wearable work of art, one treasured by generations of collectors.
