Neutral Ground: The Gender-Neutral Jewellery Brands To Know Now

Gone are the days when dog tags and rope chains were regarded as the peak of male adornment. In an era of growing diversity and inclusivity, where attitudes towards gender are changing, men are experimenting with jewellery like never before.

Leading the charge in this direction is the next generation of fashion icons. Harry Styles, for instance, transformed the once-staid pearl earring into the accessory of choice when he turned up at the 2019 Met Gala sporting a single dangling earring by Gucci (for which he allegedly pierced his own ear), only to continue his conquest by making pearl necklaces cool again. Styles isn’t the only one to rock the, uh, style either. Shawn Mendes, A$AP Rocky, Maluma, and the Jonas brothers are just a handful of stars who’ve jumped on the margarite bandwagon. Zayn Malik has also proved not averse to borrowing girlfriend Gigi Hadid’s baubles, while Timothée Chalamet (aka the internet’s boyfriend) favours delicate chain necklaces, statement rings, and even gemstone brooches.

And brands have been quick on the uptake. Though the notion of gender-neutral jewellery is not a new one, recent months have cemented its evolution from a trend to a more permanent movement, affording a greater scope for creativity. As a result, an increasing number of design(er)s are blurring the gender boundaries, such as the now-classic Clash de Cartier collection and Bulgari’s B.Zero1 Rock series. Not forgetting Comme des Garçons’ collaboration with Mikimoto this season, which saw Rei Kawakubo put a subversive spin on pearls, with all seven options meant to be worn “regardless of age or gender”. Or the raft of smaller (but no less sophisticated) houses offering pieces that go beyond gender.

Below, we’ve rounded up five labels you should keep an eye on, because there’s no doubt that genderless jewellery is here to stay.  

As if being a model and a member of the Hadid family isn’t enough, Anwar Hadid can also add jewellery designer to his list of achievements. He founded Martyre together with friend and musician Yoni Laham last year, with the aim of redefining unisex jewellery. Their approach is simple but effective – dreaming up designs they would wear themselves. That means huggies and hoop earrings, chokers and pendants, and cuff and chain bracelets, emblazoned with messages like “pray for us” and “every sinner dies a saint”.

Meaning “life” and “faith” in Italian, Vita Fede is the brainchild of actress turned jeweller Cynthia Sakai. Drawing on Sakai’s own diverse heritage, the jewellery brand fuses Asian, American, and European influences to create contemporary classics that evoke a universal point of view. Each gold and silver piece is handcrafted in Italy, with unisex designs ranging from spiked rings and bracelets to sinuous earrings to crystal-embellished “shoelry” for your sneakers and boots. Vita Fede is a favourite of Timothée Chalamet and Kendall Jenner, which should be endorsement enough for you.

You might not have heard of Pattaraphan before, but you’re likely to have seen its designs on celebrities such as Gigi Hadid and Yungblud. Pattaraphan Salirathavibhaga established her eponymous label just two years ago, but her gender-neutral accessories have already skyrocketed in popularity, thanks to semi-abstract, whimsical creations like soda tab necklaces and architectural ear cuffs, which feature unusual motifs of fishing hooks and femurs. What’s more, Pattaraphan is committed to sustainability, with every piece crafted by artisans using only responsibly sourced raw materials in order to support local communities and minimise waste in the founder’s native country of Thailand. You really can’t ask for more in a brand.