A Look at Dior and the Yellow Diamond

Discovered in 2020 in South Africa’s historic Kimberley Mine, the 150-carat rough diamond has spent nine months being studied, modelled, and cut by master gem cutters with virtuoso savior-fare. After certification, the Le Montaigne is revealed in all its glistening clarity and brilliance, displaying its bewitchingly mesmerizing, intense, fancy yellow hue. 

Currently on display at Dior's newly revamped 30 Avenue Montaigne flagship boutique (for which it was aptly named after), the diamond will be mounted on a custom-made piece designed by Artistic Director of Dior Joaillerie, Victoire de Castellane. 

Though little is known about what magical piece of jewellery the gem will adorn, it was declared by the house of Dior that the diamond, once cut, must weigh precisely 88.88 crats. The number eight is a significant part of the Dior legacy. One of Christian Dior's lucky charms, the number is symbolic of the Maison's founding on October the 8th 1946, made up of eight floors that would house eight workshops in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. The figure also celebrates Monsieur Dior's En Huit line, which enhanced its iconic curves – “clean and shapely with underlined necks and accentuated hips” – reflecting the eternal elegance of Dior's New Look. 

As we speculate the destiny of this mesmerizing jewel, here is a look back at some of Dior's other spectacular yellow diamond creations. 

The grand halls of the summer residence of French Kings served as inspiration for this collection. Reimagined through Victorie's artistic eye, the stunning pieces were not a literal representation of the palace itself but evoked the associations, architecture, and impressions that came with it.  

The Salon de Venus Diamant Jaune ring, for example, featured white gold, darkened silver, yellow gold, diamonds and a statement yellow diamond centre. Its design hinted at the Baroque stylings and abundance of arched curves that graced the main entrance to the Grand Apartments. 

The Salon D’Apollon yellow diamond bracelet and Boiserie yellow diamond earrings are a nod to the notorious nights at Versailles. The bracelet featured a dramatic bow etched to resemble textile. Twisted blackened silver is laid on top of rose gold while the centre showcased a burst of yellow and white diamonds, capturing all the ferocious enchantment of the stars and sun. The Boiserie yellow diamond earrings, on the other hand, is studded with round and baguette-cut diamonds. The white diamonds contrasted spectacularly with the statement, vivid yellow diamond drop pendants and in true Dior fashion, an aspect of asymmetry presents itself in the form of different designs on each of the ornate, ribbon-esque swirls.

An interesting material choice, the use of silver instead of gold, was also reflective of the 17th and 18th centuries. White gold did not exist at that time and silver was the precious metal of choice for high jewellery in the Palace. The cleverly oxidized silver used on the settings added an aura of allure and mystique, while lending depth to the jewels. 
 

Symbolism is an important aspect of Dior's creations and Christian Dior's love for flowers manifested itself in this collection. A range of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces feature the mystical, elegant rose, a motif cherished by Monsieur Dior.

The designs echoed the cliffside garden of Dior's childhood home in Granville, Normandy, where his mother, Madaline, created an English garden filled with roses. As sweet and as delicate as the blossom itself, one of the sets featured an 18 karat white gold bracelet, ring and necklace encrusted with white and yellow diamonds as well as emeralds.  

A statement, teardrop-shaped, yellow diamond sits at an angle in the centre of the rose. This dazzling drop of sunshine provides depth and dimension to the pendant while enhancing the feel of summer with its vivid, vibrant hue. Clever use of imagery also comes in the form of the organic, vine design on the Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace and bracelet. Dotted with emerald leaves, it evoked the scene of a rose sitting on its stem in a fairytale-like garden. 
 

Yellow diamonds feature again on three variants of the choker in the Dior Dior Dior collection. An ode to the masterpieces created by the maison's founder, the collection was imagined as a means to transform the delicate lace of the couturier's dresses into a magical, whimsical collection of ornate, exquisitely intricate jewellery.   

Hinting at the romanticism of the Victorian era, the yellow diamond-adorned Dentelle Guipure Diamant Jaune necklaces and Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Jaune necklace bore resemblance to the elaborate accessories that graced the necks of high society women of the time. More specifically, the accessories they wore when attending grand balls that were popularised during the period. 

Victorie breathed an antiqued, old-world glamour into these pieces as she took on the delicate task of twisting and intertwining precious metal lace threads to create the foundation of the ornamental, jewelled creations. The feminine lace-inspired collars provided a beautiful, effortlessly chic base for the dazzling, statement yellow diamonds to bask in all their glory. Set in the centre of the necklaces, the larger, statement diamonds evoked a sense of regality and grandeur while perfectly showcasing the masterful, immaculate cutting skills of Dior's skilful jewellery ateliers.