Slinky panthers and Art Deco chic: Inside Cartier's new, lively high jewellery pieces
Cartier brings back some of its most recognisable icons for its new high jewellery creations, but this time, they're interpreted in a decidedly tactile — even playful — manner.
There are several designs that French jewellery Cartier is most known for. The Panthère, for sure — the slinky big cat has been a mainstay in the Maison's catalogue since it first appeared on a watch in 1914. Another would be the Maison's Art Deco sensibilities, which they honed during the early 20th century, birthing icons like the Tank watch and the Tutti Frutti line — to name a few.
For the brand's newest high jewellery creations, they've tapped on these two motifs for inspiration — but instead of hashing out more of the same, they've chosen to interpret these decades-old icons in a more urbane manner.
This striking series puts the Cartier panther centerstage: Here, its aquiline body is rendered in three dimensions and wrought of diamonds, onyx — and of course — emeralds for its piercing eyes. The use of coral, in particular, gives an added pop of colour, heat, and an unexpected levity to the series.
On the bracelet, the Pantherè coils itself around the coral beads in an almost serpentine manner — the same way the supple creation would sit on its wearer's wrist.
Cartier is hardly one to shy away from colours, as this new high jewellery set from its Sixième Sens collection proves. Pale chalcedony beads contrast with deep emeralds to create a deeply sensuous visage: One that's given a bit of edge with accents of onyx and sapphires.
The union of green and blue is a tribute to one of Louis Cartier's favourite colour combinations, which he called the 'peacock pattern'; the two colours were traditionally seen as discordant — even unseemly — in Europe in the early 20th century. Not that it stopped Cartier. Today, the colour combination is a mainstay in the House's playbook, as evinced by this high jewellery set.
There's no combination more striking than green and black, something Cartier plays to great effect in the new Sixième Sens par Cartier ring. The mesmerising layers of rock crystal and onyx serve to enhance the emeralds' complexity, while the subtly-placed diamonds add an extra bit of sparkle to the ring.
Featuring tapered points, geometric lines, and remarkable diamonds, this necklace is a textbook example of Cartier's Art Deco mastery — all set against a stunning openwork that gives this necklace the illusion of being suspended on nothing at all. It recalls the Cartier patriarch's signature Garland style, where Louis Cartier would create flexible, almost invisible settings that would show off the beauty of every individual diamond.
