Boucheron Makes Precious Jewellery From Processed Asbestos Waste

Boucheron’s recent Jack de Boucheron Ultime capsule collection brings together two traditions close to the Maison’s heart: its Jack design, and incorporating materials not typically associated with jewellery. Crafted with Cofalit, derived from recycling an industrial byproduct of asbestos, are three unique designs — a double-loop bracelet, brooch and single ear stud — of white gold and diamonds. 

Used as a filling material in building roads and highways, but with no further applications, Cofalit is considered unrecyclable, hence its status as a final material. A glassy onyx-like material, Cofalit has the appearance of a mineral, and can be cut, polished and faceted. The very definition of a waste material, with pedestrian applications, its appearance in the Jack de Boucheron Ultime capsule collection redefines what can be considered precious and perhaps jewellery itself.

“Cofalit is the complete opposite of what is considered precious in the collective imagination. I appreciate the radicality and aesthetic appearance of this recycled industrial byproduct, which has reached the end of its life cycle,” says Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative director. “I took inspiration from the fact that this material is deemed to have no further utility. I wanted to restore its value in a lasting way through this capsule collection.”

A move in line with Boucheron’s commitment to sustainable development and embracing innovation, the launch of Jack de Boucheron Ultime was announced around the same time as the publication of the Maison’s “Precious for the Future” social and environmental impact report, which details the brand’s efforts to improve sustainability in sourcing raw materials, operations, and diversity and inclusion. Boucheron has also pledged to use 100 percent responsible gold, of which 95 percent will be of recycled origin, and to source gold from small-scale mines in support of developing this supply chain, respecting the environment, fairer labour conditions, and improved traceability of raw materials.