Wonder Woman: In Conversation With Donatella Versace
Especially close to her older brother Gianni, Donatella Versace took over the throne of his namesake label in 1997, following the designer's shock assassination on the steps of his Miami mansion. Donatella was 42 years old at the time, and armed with a steely determination aimed at keeping the brand's hype alive, she remains at the creative helm over 20 years later, having grown Versace into a blockbuster brand beloved the world over.
One of the most recognisable figures in fashion with her year-round tan, poker-straight platinum tresses, and glittering diamond jewellery, there is no one quite like Donatella.
Here, we speak with the legendary designer about the Versace woman, the designs she's most proud of, the power of change, and more.
How did you discover your passion for fashion? Beyond Gianni, was there a moment of revelation in which you decided this was your destiny?
No. After university, I joined Gianni in Milan, and he started telling me, do this and do that, and after a while I found myself working full-time with him. Over time I started to love what I was doing: being on the set of shoots, seeing an idea transform into an outfit, the excitement that comes with fashion shows, models, and celebrities.
I was lucky because it was as if Gianni saw something in me that I myself did not, and that took me in a completely different direction from what I had imagined.
In the '90s there were the supermodels, then Madonna, and then Jennifer Lopez. What do they have in common with the Versace woman?
Strength, ingenuity, self-confidence, charisma, a desire to break the rules... Madonna is truly unique. We have known each other for what seems like a lifetime, and we've been friends for that long too. From her I learnt the strength that comes from believing firmly in what you do — she helped me understand what "never give up" really means.
With regards to J.Lo, I admire her strength, her passion, and her dedication to her work, but above all, I respect her for her compassion and her love as a mother. She is one of the most genuine and beautiful women I have ever met, and it makes me so proud to see her wear Versace.
Which design are you most proud of?
The Jungle dress. I created it for the Spring/Summer 2000 collection, and it became an icon — can I say that about something I did? Everyone had the exact same reaction: they were stunned. Millions of people searched the internet for a photo of Jennifer Lopez. And so, the Jungle dress went down in history, and inspired the team at Google to create a new search engine tool, Google Images.
Who were the decisive figures in the Versace myth?
It would take an encyclopaedia to list them all down. Starting with geniuses of photography like Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, and Bruce Weber, and stretching all the way to Steven Meisel and Mert and Marcus.
The supermodels were born with Gianni, when I suggested to him that they should walk our runways and be a part of our shoots. Naomi, Cindy, Claudia, Stephanie, Linda, Carla, and Kate, and from Gisele to Gigi and Bella, Kendall, Vittoria, and Kaia... The list goes on, but what unites all these people, who are all members of Versace's extended family, is the fact that they have left a mark on society that goes beyond fashion. They were the real celebrities, the people you wanted to not only copy their outfits, but to also know where they went on vacation.
What were some of the key moments for Versace under your creative direction?
The "Tribute Collection" for Spring/Summer 2018 certainly represents a turning point both for Versace and for me personally. It was a real challenge, a path that was at times painful, but also liberating. Honestly, I didn't expect the collection to make such a big impact, not because I don't believe in what I do, but because you're always a bit more critical of yourself, especially if you're dealing with the legacy of a genius.
And I cannot forget that moment when Jennifer strode onto the runway last September — it represented the closing of a circle begun in 2000, and evoked a lot of emotions that are beyond words.
The latest Fall/Winter 2020 collection was also a key moment, because it was the first time we showed the men's and women's collections together. I made this decision so as to put a greater emphasis on the values of inclusivity and equality that lie at the core of Versace's DNA.
Fashion is undergoing an upheaval at this moment. The industry is rethinking everything from seasonality to the number of collections produced to sustainability. What are the main changes taking place at Versace?
Many things will have to be reviewed and we are currently making the first changes. But I do not want to give myself away in declarations of any kind, because this a very delicate moment, a moment that no one before us has lived through.
We are reconsidering everything, because concepts that were taken for granted six months ago now seem meaningless: the seasonality of collections, how big a collection should be, what it should include... If fashion a mirror of society, and society has changed, then there will probably be a change in direction toward what people want. Sustainability and authenticity will play a key role, as will the digital world.
You have always been committed to supporting the LGBTQIA+ community...
I believe in the power of change. I believe that we, as human beings and as a society, can build a better world for ourselves and for those who will come after us, supporting one another, and accepting that we are not all the same and our differences are what make us unique.
Even with the smallest gesture of kindness, we can bring about this change in our lives. We are going through a difficult time, and only by staying united can we hope for a brighter future for everyone. We have just rediscovered the importance of being kind to one another, of helping one another, of being a true community.
It is for this reason that I have always supported different organisations, and in particular, I am committed to the LGBTQIA+ community. This year, I celebrated the first anniversary of my appointment [as a Stonewall Ambassador], collaborating with Pride Live and Arcigay to support their fight for equal rights.
