Smoking Hot: Saint Laurent's Revolutionary Le Smoking Suit
To say that Yves Saint Laurent revolutionised women’s fashion with his Le Smoking suit would not be an exaggeration. When the couturier debuted his now-iconic design in the “Pop Art” collection of 1966, it was still considered controversial for women to wear trousers in public. His take on the classic tuxedo, with its straight-cut pants, ruffled organza shirt, and tailored jacket, was akin to a scandal. Indeed, socialite Nan Kempner was famously turned away from New York restaurant Le Côte Basque for violating the dress code with her Le Smoking, to which she responded by removing her trousers and wearing the blazer as a mini dress.
The initial lukewarm response notwithstanding, Le Smoking quickly gained momentum as a cultural phenomenon, embraced by women of standing as a symbol of rebellion against the status quo. In the words of Pierre Bergé, “Gabrielle Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power”. Early adopters of the design included Catherine Deneuve, Lauren Bacall, Loulou de la Falaise, Betty Catroux, and Bianca Jagger (the latter even wore a white version at her wedding to Mick in the early ‘70s).
The suit has endured in various guises in the maison’s lexicon over the decades since. The latest interpretations come courtesy of current creative director Anthony Vaccarello. For Spring/Summer 2020, the designer has dreamt up a retinue of looks that pay homage to Le Smoking while still reflecting his own particular brand of dramatic sensuality, with all-over sequins, patent leather, miniscule hotpants, waist-cinching belts, and more.
These creations are the focus of a new campaign from the French house. Lensed by Juergen Teller and starring Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Anja Rubik, Liya Kebede, Freja Beha Erichsen, Stella Tennant, and Mica Argañaraz, it proves the maison’s founding father to be right when he said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal”.
