Saint Laurent in Retrospect

Sixty years of an unrepeatable love story with fashion, the brand that revolutionized the catwalks is more alive than ever.

Sixty years ago, in 1962, a company was born that would give a 180-degree turn to the way of making fashion on the planet. Founded by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, it made its own mark by popularizing trends such as Beatnik attire and men's and women's safari jackets; although perhaps, one of his most memorable decisions was to use models from different cultures, something never done in Europe and that changed the course of history forever. Yves stood out for going against the norms of the time.

Without a doubt, the Parisian house presented collections that stood out for their originality and audacity, although among the most famous, we find: Pop Art, Ballet Russes, Picasso and China.

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Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1966 Collection, Yves Saint Laurent. Photography by Gérard Pataa / Courtesy of Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.

The brand is remembered for a myriad of reasons, one of which is its romance with the idea of silhouettes from the 1920s, '30s, '40s and, in parallel, its fascination with knee-length dresses and geometric figures (as in Mondrian Collection from 1965 – a collection inspired by the work of Piet Mondrian). Regardless of the apparent simplicity of his designs, Yves worked intensively and intuitively on the underlying craftsmanship.

The year 1966 represents a milestone in the maison, as it marks the appearance of Le Smoking, a success both in dressmaking and in social facets. And thanks to this, the pants were positioned as the feminine garment par excellence. Yves was famous for popularizing "androgynous" silhouettes that are now essential in any contemporary woman's wardrobe. As Bergé himself said: "If Chanel gave women freedom, it was Saint Laurent who empowered them."

In addition to versioning the women's tuxedo, he was the first to catapult Pret-a-Porter clothing and thus democratise fashion in one fell swoop, which he achieved with his Rive Gauche clothing line and a homonymous store.

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From left to right: Spring/Summer 1967 Collection, Saint Laurent. Courtesy of AFP Contributor. Yves Saint Laurent models, 1966. Photograph by Eric Koch / Courtesy Eric Koch Nationaal Archief.

One of his eternal muses was Catherine Deneuve, with whom Yves had a close relationship since she designed the costumes for the film Belle de Jour (1967), by director Luis Buñuel. Deneuve accompanied him to parties and presentations, and between the two, they formed an unstoppable duo. Their friendship was such that it lasted until the designer's death, in 2008, due to a brain disease.

Among the women who have surprised the world wrapped in Saint Laurent beauty, we find Charlotte Rampling, during the seventies, and Brooke Shields, in the eighties. Music greats like Iggy Pop, The Libertines and Justin Bieber have also worn the designer's hits. In retrospect, counting the achievements of the firm, as well as those of its creator, is an arduous task; but if we can do something, it is to live the present and constant tribute that is Saint Laurent in our collective imagination.

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Portrait of Yves Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve, 1968. Courtesy of Bridgeman Images.

For its sixtieth anniversary, Saint Laurent arrived at six of the most prestigious museums in Paris. Said show was made possible by the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent and by the Center Pompidou, Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris, Musée du Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, Musée National Picasso-Paris and Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.