Local Fashion Vanguards: Alicia Tsi Of Esse On Conscious Fashion In A Post-Pandemic World
It’s said that the darkest hour is just before the dawn, and while the coronavirus pandemic has wreaked havoc on nearly every aspect of our lives, it has also forced us to rethink our priorities, principles, perspectives, and more. The fashion industry too has been given pause to reconsider and redress the pace and consequences of its existing regime. As trend forecaster Li Edelkoort put it, we are entering a “quarantine of consumption” that will hopefully lead to a more mindful, respectful, and sustainable fashion system.
For Alicia Tsi of homegrown, conscious label Esse, such a paradigm shift has been a long time coming. The designer founded Esse (which means “existence” in medieval Latin) three years ago with the intention of redefining how we produce and consume fashion. The brand focuses on pared-down and timeless “sartorial staples”, made using only eco-friendly and sustainably-sourced materials, such as Tencel, Lyocell, organic cotton, bamboo and deadstock, and crafted by artisans in factories with a proven track record of fair and ethical working environments.
“I’m hopeful that the fashion industry is starting to understand its impact on the environment, and to realise that it cannot go on operating in the same way it always has,” shared Tsi. “With small and seasonless ranges, brands can move away from the linear, traditional fashion system of take, make, and dispose, like Esse has.”
Below, we speak with the designer about the future of fashion, adapting to the current climate, finding balance in the midst of stress, and what she’s most looking forward to once this all tides over.
What does a day in the life look like for you now?
Interestingly enough, my day-to-day life hasn’t changed much. I’ve been working from home, based remotely in New Zealand, since before the pandemic hit, so I’m still following a regular routine.
The only thing that’s changed is probably having less face time with our customers and makers. I visit our makers regularly, so we’ve had to rely on video calls to keep each other updated and stay in touch.
What are some of the challenges you have faced with your business since the start of the pandemic?
Getting our shipments to and from suppliers has been tricky, to say the least. There have been major disruptions in our supply chain with many airplanes grounded. This has spilled over into production, and caused delays in the delivery of goods. We’ve had to approach this setback with a one for all, all for one mentality to ensure the survival of our whole eco-system.
The other conundrum is communicating our launches. In a global pandemic, trying to sell a collection of clothing feels quite inappropriate and tone deaf. We’ve had to re-strategise how we speak to our community, taking into consideration the uncertainty everyone is feeling. The conversation can no longer be purely product-based, but has to focus on bringing everyone together.
We’ve also had to rely a lot more on digital communications. Offline retail at our showroom and events forms a significant part of our revenue, so we’ve had to readjust our production forecast and shift towards online retail. This involves thinking outside the box to engage our customers, and to help them with questions of size and fit.
What have you done to adapt your business to suit the current climate?
We were one of the first few brands in Singapore to organise a series of Instagram Live Takeovers. We brought together a few of our friends who are girl bosses, digital inspirers, and creatives to share wholesome chats and activities that our community can do while staying home. And we tried to stay connected to, and show up for, our community in new ways.
We’ve also had to create more flexibility around returns and exchanges. For example, allowing for longer return periods and free returns for first time customers, even though our margins are already quite slim.
In addition, we’ve re-introduced our pre-order model. Personally, I find there are many merits to taking pre-orders, like reducing fabric waste and over-production. With the pandemic, pre-orders help a small business like us to maintain cash flow, as the payment goes towards materials and labour involved in making the garments. Pre-orders can further help us decide on production quantities, pre-empting what styles will sell and what sizes are more popular.
What do you hope this pause will mean for the fashion industry and/or your brand when the outbreak subsides?
I’m hopeful that the fashion industry is starting to understand its impact on the environment, and to realise that it cannot go on operating in the same way it always has.
Inventory has always been an issue that fashion brands struggle with, due to delivery times. Garments delivered to stores arrive too early for retail – winter stocks arrive during summer, and vice versa. With the increasing demand for new and trendy designs, garments are seen as aged stock by the time the relevant purchasing period comes around. This means a collection only stays on the shop floor for one to two months before it’s discounted. That, in turn, drives an addiction to price-cuts, lowering consumers’ appetite to spend more on full-priced items. As the volume of full-priced purchases diminishes, the sale stock piles up.
The issue of excess inventory has been exacerbated by COVID-19, because people are more serious about what they buy. I hope this will be the impetus needed to address the speed at which the industry churns out products, and the way the current fashion calendar is structured.
Hopefully, more brands will choose to move away from the linear, traditional fashion system of take, make, and dispose, as Esse has. Also, as more brands embrace the pre-order model, my hope is that they will be more transparent about their supply chains.
What are some of the key pieces you would recommend from your collection?
I’d recommend the Organic Cotton Maxi Dress, Relaxed Sheath Dress, and Tie-Back Halter Top. These are some of the first designs that were introduced when we launched the brand. Besides being breathable, lightweight, and comfortable, they are also versatile and suited for multiple occasions.
Newer styles that would make for timeless pieces are the Aude Linen Overalls and the Organic Cotton Double Layered Pants.
What have you been doing to wind down or treat yourself with the added stress of a pandemic?
I’ve had more time to slow down and contemplate things. I now fill my days with exercise, sketching, and painting. I’ve been finding even more balance in my life, and this has given me fuel for designing and making plans for the business.
What books, films, or TV series have you watched recently?
Admittedly, I’ve been binge-watching lots of TV shows. Two that have made an impression are:
Unorthodox, a Netflix limited series that follows a young Hasidic woman desperate to flee the Satmar community she grew up in, which is known for its extreme religious conservatism. The protagonist escapes to Berlin, where she befriends a group of conservatory students, and attempts to track down her estranged mother. It’s a deep human story about the search for self-definition, freedom, and a sense of belonging.
And Home, a series on Apple TV. I like how each episode offers a glimpse beyond spectacular shots of unusual homes into the homeowners’ upbringing and influences, and how their lives impact their home design.
What do you miss most during this period of isolation?
I miss spending time with family and friends. I miss face-to-face interactions, as well as simple pleasures like sharing a meal with my loved ones.
What is an obstacle you have overcome through creativity during quarantine?
Photographing our new capsules – which we managed to do earlier this week!
