Hit The Streets: Ambush Designer Yoon Ahn Talks Her New Collaboration With Bulgari
How did this collaboration come about?
Bulgari reached out to me last year to speak about this project after I received a Bulgari Avrora Award in Japan.
How was working on an iconic bag similar to or different from designing jewellery and ready-to-wear?
I haven't designed that many bags before, so it was a new experience for me. [The idea of] concept meeting functionality is quite similar to the jewellery designing process. Visiting Bulgari's factory, where they produce the bags, was mind-blowing too. Seeing so many artisans working so closely and precisely for each part of the bag was really inspiring.
Since the collaboration is called "Serpenti Through the Eyes of...", what five words come to mind when you think of Bulgari's Serpenti Forever?
Beauty, mystery, rebirth, wisdom, and magic.
How would Yoon wear the bag?
I love the waist bag we worked on. It's a three-way bag so you can wear it as a waist bag, take out the belt and attach the strap as a shoulder bag, or just use it as a clutch. I would put on an amazing pair of trousers, and a nice fitted top with the waist bag, and pair with Nike shoes to match the colours.
What is your first memory of Bulgari?
I actually got to know Bulgari better when a friend gave me a copy of the Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence book around the time we were just starting AMBUSH collections, around 2012. I remember reading it for days and being obsessed with all the jewellery featured.
You balance collaborations on top of your different designer and director roles. What's a typical day or week like for you?
I'm a morning person, so I love waking up early at 4.30 or 5am, and spend time thinking, researching, learning and reading. During that quiet time, I feel most creative because my head is so clear. Then, I head to the office around 8am to start prepping for the day. I'm pretty much in the studio until 7 or 8pm, before I eat dinner, and try to sleep by 11pm. Due to the travel ban, I'm in Tokyo at this moment, because I can't travel. I kind of like this routine, which I haven't experienced in the past few years — so I'm enjoying every moment of it.
How has your creative process changed during these times?
There is a good side, and also a not so good side to not being able to travel so much. I'm one of those people who can think more in action, so moving around helps me to be more stimulated and think clearly. Being stuck in a few places has been a bit of a challenge for me, but I'm trying to make the most of it by picking up new hobbies like photography, and studying new subjects through YouTube and online courses. Making the best of the situation is keeping me creative during this time.
As your list of collaborators stretch, what do you look for in partnerships?
Collaboration is fun when you work with people you respect and who are different from you. The best collaborators are those who are flexible, curious, and generous in giving lots of space for creativitiy. They want to find an answer to the more significant questions, and are here to connect the dots with me.
Critics say you're "the woman in streetwear", and one of the game-changers in luxury fashion...
I'd like to say that it's very kind of them to say so, but I have far more to go.
What's next for Yoon?
Yes! We have so many fun things lined up from September! The Fall/Winter 2020 collection is now in stores; and a few big collaborations will be revealed in the year!
