A Roundup of the Best Looks in Cruise 2022
Dior
Inspired by her Roman roots, Maria Grazia Chiuri tapped into comfort and ease in the versatility of movement in the collection, which she titled "Erratum": a Latin term for error in printing or writing. Set at the Panathenaic stadium in Athens, the Grecian-inspired ready-to-wear collection presented flowy cream togas, modernised with hoodies and 21st-century peplos.
Occasionally, the collection was interrupted with brightly coloured sweats in blues, greens and yellows. Some were elevated with abstract prints embracing Greek mythology, prints that can be found on traditional Greece clay pottery and designs carved out in stone on its ancient silhouettes. Incorporated with numerous outfit were utilitarian, edgy accessories made of gold and gladiator-style harnesses strapped across the body.
Louis Vuitton
Set just outside of Paris, France, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière executed a vision of joy, optimism and positive vibes, inspired by the after-effects of the Covid-19 pandemic that brought the world to a halt. Wanting to transport his audience to another world, Ghesquière reimagined the red archways of the art installation by late Israeli artist Dani Karavan into imaginary portals.
Vibrant, punchy and eye-catching prints were mixed with elements of science fiction that included planetary and lunar collages, all paired with oversized chain straps that come in pop art colours: All of which brought a sense of jubilee to the Louis Vuitton cruise 2022 collection. Military-esque glamour could also be seen on the runway, another of Ghesquière favourites, in the style of doublets with epaulette detailing on the shoulders, trompe l’oeil sashes and structured waistcoats.
Said Ghesquière: “I don’t know why, but it was always an obsession to reflect on futurism, space conquest, and what we might call ‘the space colony’. The titans of the world are investing in it, and what looked unreal in the past is now bringing us closer to space.”
Versace
Bringing back the most nostalgic elements from the 70s and 90s, Versace’s cruise 2022 collection took the beloved Medusa to a colourful, upbeat place. Think psychedelic patterns in pop-bright colours, A-line mod cuts, summer tweeds and latex in bubblegum pink and baby blue.
Of the collection, Donatella Versace said: “I think there’s a renewed sense of optimism right now and I wanted this collection to speak to that, this season is about having fun again and it feels right to put something positive into the world. We’ll never return to the old world or to the old ‘normal,’ there’s no going backwards. This is what the new now looks like to me.” Emulating the iconic fashion from Clueless.
Chanel
The Chanel cruise 2022 collection was inspired by Provence, south of France. The show was set in the Carrières de Lumières — the Quarries of Light — in Les Baux, a series of chalky, cave-like rooms, spaces left behind after centuries of excavations. Virginie Viard’s graphic collection included a canvas of black and white mini skirts, suits and coats with mod and punk references that were interlaced with fishnet stockings, rock and roll leather fringes, and caviar tweed suits and crochet mini dresses.
The collection found softness through delicate ivory lace dresses and high waist linen pants, all scattered with embroidered wildflowers of Provence – lavender, thyme, cosmos daisies and blue Felicia, among others.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing's resort 2022 collection for Balmain was a melting pot of cultures. The collection featured an unstructured design and pattern of tapestry fabric, alongside the idea that places do not define an individual’s identity; that in the tapestry we weave within ourselves is our own, and is not defined by our origin. Ruched minidresses, matte metallic silk facetted with touches of marinière and armour style ornate embroidery was present throughout the collection.
“I always wondered where I was coming from, so it’s a gift to know which cultures you have in your blood," said Rousteing. "But even if you don’t know, you take pride in the cultures that might be in your blood. Because France is a melting pot of so many cultures, and definitely this collection is about that melting pot, as well as the source of my blood, which is the Horn of Africa, as well as being a citizen of the world.”