Chanel's Cruise 2025 Collection is Sophisticated Summer Energy Personified
Virginie Viard presented her latest resort collection in Marseille — the vibrant heart of the Mediterranean, France's largest port city and a melting pot of contemporary cultures.
In anticipation of the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics, slated to commence in Marseille at the end of July, Chanel is already ahead of the curve, opting to unveil its Cruise 2025 show in this sun-soaked city. This strategic move sets the tone for a collection that embraces the spirit of water sports, exemplified by the opening ensemble: a pristine white diving suit adorned with a sleek black bow.
For Chanel's Artistic Director, Virginie Viard, this journey to Marseille represents a quest for creative inspiration in uncharted territory, a city with no prior ties to Coco Chanel. "The sun, architecture, music and dance: Marseille also has a very strong sense of freedom," Viard reflects. "I was inspired by the codes of lifestyle, of everyday life and by all the things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with wetsuits"
Thus, the Cruise collection unfolds with a nod to underwater fantasies, with diving helmets featuring prominently in the lineup, adorning the jackets of emerald Chanel suits or adding a touch of intrigue to suggestive necklines. Echoes of the 60s reverberate through the motifs of playful fish, intricate fishing nets, and delicate seashells, embellishing an array of garments ranging from flowing dresses to tailored coats.
Above the water's surface, shimmering silver fabrics catch the sunlight, tracing soft, undulating contours reminiscent of leisurely days spent poolside. Neoprene jerseys, tweed ensembles, and sequined jackets evoke a sense of summertime ease, while embroidered details—whether in vibrant hues or delicate floral patterns—accentuate pockets and collars, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection.
The fusion of sporty elements with Chanel's signature aesthetic is evident throughout, as seen in reinterpretations of classic hoodie features, bermuda shorts adorned with intricate embroidery, and oversized jackets exuding an aura of effortless chic. The collection is a celebration of movement and vitality, embodied by billowing dresses and ethereal sheaths that flutter in the sea breeze.
Swimwear takes center stage, with tights, shorts, and cut-out dresses exuding a sun-kissed allure, crafted from waffle fabrics, airy petticoats, and delicate broderie anglaise embroidery. Layering becomes an art form, with shirt collars peeking out from beneath French jackets, creating an effortlessly chic aesthetic.
As a Cultural Ambassador, Chanel finds a fitting showcase atop the iconic Cité Radieuse, where Virginie Viard elaborates on the collection's genesis: "Marseille is a city that puts me in touch with my emotions. I tried to capture its power of attraction, its breath of fresh air, and to convey the energy that reigns there. And you couldn't ask for a better backdrop to a runway show than the Cité radieuse."
