Burberry Brings the Refreshing Outdoors to its Spring/Summer 2025 Show

At London’s National Theatre, an iconic example of British Brutalist architecture, Gary Hume revived his installation "Bays" for the Burberry show. Originally unveiled in the 1990 "East Country Yard Show" in London’s Docklands, the work made a striking return to the spotlight. “‘Working with Gary has been amazing,” shared Burberry’s creative director Daniel Lee, “. I have been so inspired by his thought process; his use of colour, shapes, and the emotion behind his works. It has been so important in designing this collection.”

He went on to share the exact work that inspired the designer, "We came across an installation by Gary titled ‘Bays’ from an exhibition in 1990. These pieces were made out of tarpaulin, cut and draped. The connection between Gary’s work and Burberry made sense. The materiality—it’s functional and protective." Naturally, the classic trenchcoat would come to mind when thinking of those two elements and has a strong presence in this collection too. Trench elements are reconstructed as jackets, dresses and tops in washed silk poplin and linen. Rainwear is reimagined—cropped, draped and detailed with cutouts, zips and silk organza faux feathers that play with the British label's signature silhouettes.

The front row was brimming with star power, featuring celebrities and brand ambassadors the likes of Thai heartthrob Bright Vachirawit, South Korean actors Son Suk-ku and Gong Hyo-jin, Barry Keoghan, Japanese actor and Snow Man member Koji Mukai and many more.

From the very first look, the collection exuded understated elegance and the essence of British creativity, with quintessentially "Brit" silhouettes and a dash of summer escapism. Cropped raincoats and deconstructed trenches, crafted from lightweight fabrics like silk and linen, reflected a natural, weathered beauty. "The outdoor references are subtle in this collection. We used treatments on fabrics to give a weathered effect, and the colour palette is light and joyful," Lee explained, "We wanted the colour palette to feel fresh. The earthy, neutral tones are next to brighter, more playful shades; that balance was important this season."

The iconic Burberry Check reappeared across select pieces, while soft trousers, functional cargo pants, and vibrant long skirts formed the backbone of the collection. Sequined dresses added a touch of opulence, with footwear ranging from rugged clogs to chic mules. The bags, inspired by the outdoors, played with bold pops of colour alongside more neutral shades. Lee summed up the collection perfectly, saying, "There is a lightness in the collection; textures, shapes and colours that feel calming. A sense of joy was important for us, for people to feel good when they see and wear the clothes. This collection is an evolution of Winter 2024; an easy elegance that feels inviting for summer. We want the pieces to feel welcoming, and for the wearers to feel confident."