Anatomy: The Gucci 1955 Horsebit

“Can fashion fulfil this task? Can it offer itself as an instrument of resistance? Can it suggest experiential freedom, ability to transgress and disobey, emancipation and self-determination? Or fashion itself risks to become a refined device of neo liberal government that ends up imposing a new normativity, turning freedom into a commodity and emancipation into a broken promise?”

If Gucci’s elaborate show notes are anything to go by, creative director Alessandro Michele has been doing a fair bit of pondering and self-reflecting.

Seen as an exercise in rebellion to break free from its signature more-is-more aesthetic, the collection was first given a sartorial palate cleanser through a series of white-out looks before exploding into killer pops of bright colours punctuated with Michele’s maximalist trademarks of prints and graphic florals, but this time with more restraints and streamlined silhouettes.

For accessories, an updated iteration of the Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag is a clear standout as the house debuted a new Dome-shaped silhouette in a wide range of materials and colours unified with details first introduced on the original version from over six decades ago.

From its classic leather variations to the statement options that have the show’s quirky mottos “Gucci Orgasmique” and “BOUTIQUE” printed across the front on GG Supreme canvas, all designs include the equestrian-inspired code of the house—a double ring and bar.

A detachable leather shoulder strap allows the bag to be carried over the shoulder or across the body. Additionally, a double-zip closure facilitates an opening that extends from the top of the bag to the bottom of its sides, allowing for practical access to its interior fitted with plenty of compartments for efficient organisation.