To Master Perfumer Thierry Wasser, Scent Is An Armour
We speak to Thierry Wasser about his role at Guerlain, the L'Art & La Matière collection, and how scent has the power to embolden one's self-esteem
It’s no question that Thierry Wasser is a force to be reckoned with; considering his role as the fifth master perfumer of Guerlain, curating and manufacturing new (and old) scents continue the legacy of the house, he has to be. Last month, we sat down with Wasser to talk about the responsibilities that come with his role at Guerlain, the house’s latest L'Art & La Matiere Collection, and the power of fragrances on uplifting one's self-esteem.
“You have to understand the uniqueness of it,” says Wasser when asked about how he’s managed to successfully follow in the footsteps of his predecessors. “You have to understand that on top of designing fragrances, you have to manufacture and source for them.”
He explains, “My colleagues around the world? They just design fragrances. I'm in charge of manufacturing. Not only do I have to create fragrances, but I also have to recreate the ones from my predecessors. Our oldest formula was created in 1853; I have to reproduce that. The nostrils of the house are very diverse, and that's what makes our fragrances unique.”
Do you feel a great responsibility in continuing the legacy of Guerlain?
Yes. I have the responsibility of ensuring the integrity of my predecessor's work, but this is not a burden at all; usually, an inheritance is always positive. I had been taught the manufacturing processes and the different routes of sourcing. I had to learn and get acquainted with the families of my predecessors. The transition was perfect – from perfumer to perfumer, generation to generation. It’s mind-blowing to me that I’ve learnt secrets indirectly from a man who got his trade secrets from someone from the 19th century.
Tell us more about Guerlain’s L'Art & La Matière collection and how you formulated it.
There are 21 members of that family; each one has its own character, background, and tells its own story, but there is a common thread. You have the lead actor, the character you put on stage as a director. And when you put him or her on stage, you have to light the stage. How you decorate the stage contributes to enhancing the character. You have to put the character in the spotlight. You have to decide who the lead character is and how complementary they are to the other characters. One is sparkly, juicy, red, and glossy, and one is dark, sombre, and deep.
Did you envision the type of person who would wear the collection prior to creating it?
No. Because when you're a director, you don’t get to choose who watches your movie or goes to the theatre to watch your play. It's the same here. You tell a story, and you put characters on the stage; whoever loves it will come here. I think the public needs to own the story and own their fragrance. And people want to be reassured about how to do that. They want rules and there are none. People are afraid to show emotion and afraid to let go. That's why they want rules. They ask me, "How should I wear a fragrance? Is it for the night? Is it for the day? For winter?" Who cares? Just wear it and be happy. And even if you don't like it, don't wear it. I'm not here to judge and I'm not here to set rules.
What do you personally prefer in a scent?
I wear a fragrance that was designed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1965. I’ve been wearing it for the past 40-plus years that people now recognise me when they smell that fragrance. At work, people will know it’s me because it's reeking of Habit Rouge in the elevator. I’ve worn it for so long, I don't smell it anymore. I even carry a lab sample with me.
It’s interesting that you stayed loyal to that one scent.
I picked this scent when was 13. Kids were bullying me because I was frumpy and short, and they made fun of my baby face and everything. This fragrance acted as my Superman disguise; it was like my shining armour. I disguised myself as a man because it was a manly man's scent and it never failed me.
So from 13 to 61, I wore that because it’s been a part of my success. It is me and it protected me. Speaking from experience, wearing a fragrance can be uplifting. It can be a way to be someone other than who you are. I think beauty – makeup and skincare – is a way to boost your self-esteem.
Self-esteem is challenged every day, especially with social media. I was challenged as a 13-year-old child, and that was my answer. And I think today, I do believe that what Guerlain does is vital because it makes your daily life easier. Boosting your self-esteem is very important.
