5 Skincare Ingredients That Your Skin Barrier Loves
From algae to mushroom, these skincare ingredients are all about soft power.
Ingredients like glycolic acid, azelaic acid and salicylic acid were once the headliners for their exfoliating prowess and transformative effect on the complexion. However, their time in the limelight has paved the way for a new generation of rising ingredients, ones that prioritise the resilience of the skin with restoring and revitalising properties. These ingredients, with their gentle yet profound action, strengthen the skin’s barrier and promote enduring health like a cosy blanket. Of course, it doesn’t mean we have fallen out of love with our exfoliating heroes, but rather, we are embracing a more holistic and balanced approach to taking care of our skin.
ALGAE
Algae is never a stranger to skincare aficionados — it is at the heart of La Mer’s Miracle Broth™, and Biossance’s best-selling eye cream boasts a generous dose of it. Yet, its prominence is only on the rise. An umbrella term covering a group of aquatic organisms, algae, whether red, brown or green, is brimming with vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Highly valued for its moisturising and soothing abilities, algae often serves as a water-binding agent in products with a rich, creamy texture to lock in moisture. Lately, this marine wonder has been unveiling more potential as the world of skincare looks beyond its hydrating quality and sets eyes on its anti-inflammatory, UV-resistant and skin-brightening properties.
MUSHROOM
Like algae, the mushroom has an intricate universe of its own. And when it comes to the mushrooms in skincare, we are talking about a hydrating line-up that sensitive skin prone to dryness, irritation, redness and pigmentation would adore. Think anti-inflammatory reishi that is rich in soothing betaglucan; moisture-retaining, healing tremella; antioxidant cordyceps that provide overall rejuvenation; shiitake loaded with kojic acid that evens out skin tone; and anti-inflammatory fermented chaga that calms and soothes. It would be remiss not to mention the Origins’ Mega-Mushroom line by Dr Andrew Weil, launched in 2005. Approaching its two-decade mark, the line’s latest addition is the Relief & Resilience Fortifying Emulsion, which marries reishi and fermented chaga to quell redness and strengthen skin resilience.
RICE
As Asians, our love for rice goes far beyond the dining table and finds its place in our skincare ritual as well. Incorporating rice into skincare is a time-honoured wisdom passed down through generations in the Asian community that is now elevated by science. Today, rice extract is a trusted go-to for softer, smoother and brighter skin, all thanks to the replenishing polysaccharides, antioxidant vitamin E and ferulic acid it contains. Together, this trio works in synergy to retain skin’s hydration. I’m From uses an impressive 77.78 per cent rice extract in its Rice Toner to restore skin balance, whilst Beauty of Joseon enriches its sunscreen with rice extract for added hydration. When the skin is plump and the barrier is happy, it simply looks and feels its best.
LINOLEIC ACID
The F in vitamin F quite literally stands for fat, and in skincare, it refers to linoleic acid. It is a fatty acid that cannot be synthesised by the body, yet plays a vital role in forming a lipid duo of ceramides and prostaglandins that support a healthy epidermal barrier, retaining hydration and defending against inflammatory stressors. Whilst our diet ensures an adequate supply of linoleic acid, slathering it on directly has some skin-saving perks. A study in 1998 revealed that the topical application of linoleic acid was able to reduce the pustule size by 25 per cent over a month. Once under the radar, linoleic acid has become a staple for rebalancing sebum production and relieving inflammation. It’s most commonly found in oils such as rosehip, hemp, chia, sunflower seed and rosa rubiginosa seed.
ARGIRELINE
Argireline might not ring a bell, as this peptide often goes by the names acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8, which are usually spotted on products that “work like Botox in a bottle”. Peptides are chains of amino acids that form proteins like collagen and elastin, the essential components responsible for soft, firm and bouncy skin. Argireline is a potent humectant, barrier restorer and collagen booster, but what truly sets it apart is how it affects the communication between nerve and muscle, thereby preventing the deepening of expression lines. When we say it’s the closest we can get to Botox, we are all about its ability to simultaneously safeguard the skin barrier and slow down the traces of time.
