Old Habits Die Hard: Virgil Abloh Takes On Tradition For Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Fall 2020
You’ve probably heard or read about how to transition your wardrobe according to the seasons, but what about how to transition your wardrobe between different stages of life? That is the question that Virgil Abloh seems to tackle in his Pre-Fall 2020 collection for Louis Vuitton. Centred on the concept of tradition, here defined as the passing of customs or codes from one generation to the next, Abloh envisions the journey from boy to man in sartorial terms. Deviating from his usual streetwear-influenced designs, the artistic director explores the ins and outs of tailoring, as well as the intersection between the casual and the corporate.
Colourful prints that play on the monogram flowers and brand name are splashed across sweaters, shorts, and zip-up jackets, evoking a youthful vibe, while athletic and military style silhouettes like varsity knits and bomber jackets have a distinctly collegiate feel. Garments mature into more tailored looks with suiting separates in a palette of black, grey, and navy, given a touch of edge with sharp shoulders, multiple pockets, and even the occasional harness.
Camouflage patterns dapple many of the pieces in the collection, such as a corduroy denim suit, a reversible coat, and an evening jacket, while trompe l’oeil stitching is applied to a grey café racer jacket and wool performance parka. Amplifying the artisanal volume, a jacket is constructed from double-face vicuna with a lining of jacquard, and a classic blouson in dark brown deerskin. Staples Edition, a series of wardrobe essentials curated by Abloh, includes a navy flannel pea coat and a single-breasted blazer with a ‘dolphin shine’ finish.
Accessories are no less intriguing. The signature keepall is festooned with multicoloured mackintosh taping, a feature that is repeated in small leather goods. The collection’s camouflage motif appears on a small soft trunk, while connect-the-dots stitching spells out the letters LV on a leather tote and other small bags. A pair of sneakers that debuted for Spring/Summer 2020 evolves in technical metal and mesh, while a worker boot is punctuated with monogram panels, and a hybrid derby fuses past and present with a sports sole.
See all the looks in the collection below:
The Pre-Fall 2020 season also marks the launch of LV² (or Louis Vuitton Squared), a standalone collaboration born out of the longstanding friendship between Abloh and Nigo, the founder of A Bathing Ape and Human Made. Details are rather scarce at the moment, but you can expect a capsule collection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, and accessories that showcases dedicated graphics and interpretations of the Louis Vuitton signatures, which will be available in the middle of 2020.
