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Anyone who knows a diamond knows the four C’s – carat, colour, clarity and cut – and how they alter the stone’s value. But which of those do the pros typically look at first? “Carats seem to get the most attention,” says Melvyn Kirtley, Tiffany & Co.’s Chief Gemmologist and High Jewellery President. “Not from me, though,” he reveals.
If not carats, then what? “It’s the one thing that people forget most – cut,” points out Kirtley, who has acquired exceptional gemstones for the New York brand for more than 30 years. “A perfectly cut diamond is more luminous looking. It sparkles more and has more life, but some weight is often sacrificed to get that result,” he explains. “A perfectly cut diamond should also reveal a symmetrical motif composed of eight hearts or arrows under a special light. We call those diamonds Hearts & Arrows.”
BEST PICTURE
Black Panther
BlacKkKlansman
Bohemian Rhapsody
The Favourite
Roma
A Star Is Born
Vice
BEST ACTOR
Christian Bale, Vice
Bradley Cooper, A Star Is Born
Willem Dafoe, At Eternity’s Gate
Rami Malek, Bohemian Rhapsody
Viggo Mortensen, Green Book
BEST ACTRESS
Yalitza Aparicio, Roma
Glenn Close, The Wife
Olivia Colman, The Favourite
Lady Gaga, A Star Is Born
Melissa McCarthy, Can You Ever Forgive Me?
BEST SUPPORTING ACTRESS
Amy Adams, Vice
Marina de Tavira, Roma
Regina King, If Beale Street Could Talk
Emma Stone, The Favourite
Rachel Weisz, The Favourite
BEST SUPPORTING ACTOR
Mahershala Ali, Green Book
Adam Driver, BlacKkKlansman
Sam Elliott, A Star Is Born
Richard E. Grant, Can You Ever Forgive Me?
Sam Rockwell, Vice
BEST DIRECTOR
BlacKkKlansman, Spike Lee
Cold War, Paweł Pawlikowski
The Favourite, Yorgos Lanthimos
Roma, Alfonso Cuarón
Vice, Adam McKay
ADAPTED SCREENPLAY
The Ballad of Buster Scruggs, Joel Coen and Ethan Coen
BlacKkKlansman, Charlie Wachtel, David Rabinowitz, Kevin Willmott, and Spike Lee
Can You Ever Forgive Me?, Nicole Holofcener and Jeff Whitty
If Beale Street Could Talk, Barry Jenkins
A Star Is Born, Eric Roth, Bradley Cooper, and Will Fetters
ORIGINAL SCREENPLAY
The Favourite, Deborah Davis and Tony McNamara
First Reformed, Paul Schrader
Green Book, Nick Vallelonga, Brian Currie, and Peter Farrelly
Roma, Alfonso Cuarón
Vice, Adam McKay
FOREIGN LANGUAGE FILM
Capernaum, Lebanon
Cold War, Poland
Never Look Away, Germany
Roma, Mexico
Shoplifters, Japan
ANIMATED FEATURE
Incredibles 2
Isle of Dogs
Mirai
Ralph Breaks the Internet
Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse
ORIGINAL SCORE
Black Panther
BlacKkKlansman
If Beale Street Could Talk
Isle of Dogs
Mary Poppins Returns
ORIGINAL SONG
“All the Stars,” Black Panther
“I’ll Fight,” RBG
“The Place Where Lost Things Go,” Mary Poppins Returns
“Shallow,” A Star Is Born
“When a Cowboy Trades His Spurs for Wings,” The Ballad of Buster Scruggs
DOCUMENTARY SHORT
Black Sheep
End Game
Lifeboat
A Night at the Garden
Period. End of Sentence.
CINEMATOGRAPHY
Cold War, Lukasz Zal
The Favourite, Robbie Ryan
Never Look Away, Caleb Deschanel
Roma, Alfonso Cuarón
A Star Is Born, Matthew Libatique
BEST DOCUMENTARY FEATURE
Free Solo
Hale County This Morning, This Evening
Minding the Gap
Of Fathers and Sons
RBG
PRODUCTION DESIGN
Black Panther
The Favourite
First Man
Mary Poppins Returns
Roma
Sound Mixing
Black Panther
Bohemian Rhapsody
First Man
Roma
A Star Is Born
Costume Design
The Ballad of Buster Scruggs
Black Panther
The Favourite
Mary Poppins Returns
Mary Queen of Scots
Film Editing
BlacKkKlansman
Bohemian Rhapsody
The Favourite
Green Book
Vice
Sound Editing
Black Panther
Bohemian Rhapsody
First Man
A Quiet Place
Roma
Animated Short Film
Animal Behavior
Bao
Late Afternoon
One Small Step
Weekends
Live Action Short
Detainment
Fauve
Marguerite
Mother
Skin
Makeup and Hairstyle
Border
Mary Queen of Scots
Vice
Visual Effects
Avengers: Infinity War
Christopher Robin
First Man
Ready Player One
Solo: A Star Wars Story
"You can be whatever you want to be, as long as your portrayal is authentic. You shouldn’t feel restricted or judged because you want to express yourself differently from other people. Just do you." — Tabitha Nauser
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Chanel’s take on skincare for the year of 2017 is that of wellness and longevity. To that end, its latest Blue Serum ($160) is inspired by what the brand calls “blue zones” – centenarian hotspots in the world. Places like Japan and the Italian island of Sardinia, for instance, where the life expectancies are high and in which there is the highest concentration of people over 100 years of age.
Blue Serum is inspired by the way of life in these places: diet, exercise and wellness. These tenets prompted the Chanel research team to look for ingredients that contributed the same philosophy of holistic well-being, except applied to the face. The focus was on the good health of skin cells and its ability to adapt to environmental stress. Three key active ingredients from these locales form the backbone of its formula.
GREEN COFFEE FROM COSTA RICA
Green coffee refers to unroasted coffee beans, and Chanel has taken on the oil from this ingredient because of its high levels of fatty acids, polyphenols and vitamin E. The antioxidants and moisturising properties of these ingredients have a track record of repairing skin, reducing photodamage and visible signs of ageing from sun exposure, and boosting skin’s natural production of collagen and elastin, keeping skin supple.
OLIVE FROM SARDINIA, ITALY
The antioxidant-rich olives from Sardinia also contain high levels of beneficial fatty acids. It’s no coincidence that two of the ingredients in Chanel’s new serum are chockful of fatty acids good for both diet and skin. On skin, it encourages collagen production for a smoothing benefit. Olives are also a source of vitamin C, which in skin care products is a great brightening and radiance-boosting ingredient. In addition, olives have the benefit of protecting skin against environmental damage from pollutants.
LENTISK FROM GREECE
The evergreen Lentisk plant yields an oil that is rich in antioxidants and vitamin E. This makes for a dual benefit of being calming and restoring to skin, aiding in cell regeneration and repair. Rather than focus on combating ageing by taking on fine lines, wrinkles and the like, Chanel has opted instead to focus on ingredients that simply treat skin well and that help it perform at its best. That holistic approach makes the Blue Serum great for all skin types and indeed users of any age.
This story first appeared in L’Officiel Singapore December/January 2017.
