Fashion

Augmenting the Body with Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023 Show

Anthony Vaccarello’s vision sprung to life this season with refreshed interpretations of the Saint Laurent muse: Elegant, elongated and elusive.

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Floor-length coats were synced with capuche jersey dresses that matched in measure for Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023 runway presentation. The slender and monochromatic looks, which were accented by bright gold accessories, were Anthony Vaccarello’s perfect deviation from the silhouettes of the Fall/Winter collection. Moving away from the manifestations of seasons past, his abbreviated looks that were shiny, short and tight have taken on a more contemporary approach this season.

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This collection took a whirl on the elongated form, transforming the body’s shape into a column of sexiness that has been redefined by the Saint Laurent image that Vaccarello has spent his tenure establishing. Through Vaccarello’s focus on the muse, the looks in this Spring/Summer collection consider the body in a new way.

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If the Fall/Winter 2022 lineup represented a sculptural sophistication embodied by the modern female warrior, the Spring/Summer collection repositions the Maison's muse as the central figure. It’s about the woman who wears the clothes, and it’s the woman that makes the careful drapery and intricately-rendered ruching. The tubular elements that run through the collection deliver an air of streetness, that feels less rarified, in contrast to the forms of the previous seasons.

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Vaccarello took on the best details of classic ‘80s style and spun them into details apt for the modern woman. Opulence is taken seriously, with boulder shoulders that overtake the form of trench coats. Muted jewel tones, along with subtle neutral shades like olive and mustard, take their place as key elements of this decidedly refined collection.

Revealing then concealing the body, the combination of barely-there sheers and opaque fabrics play with the notion of quiet confidence. The Saint Laurent woman of this season needs no loud elements. Through Vaccarello’s lens, she grounds herself in her own elegant force.

Below are all the looks from Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023 show:

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