Fashion

How Thierry Mugler Empowered Women Through His Outlandish Designs

Ahead of his time, Thierry Mugler created a limitless, inclusive, and disruptive world of fashion where women were cast as the heroines.

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French designer, photographer, perfumer, creative director and overall visionary, the late Thierry Mugler wore many hats. Best known for his eccentric and out-of-the-ballpark designs, Mugler quickly became a renowned name that revolutionised and eventually shaped the fashion sphere. His continuum of avant-garde pieces and theatrical runway shows (starting with his first personal collection “Café de Paris” in 1973) earned Mugler recognition and adoration from influential names of the likes of David Bowie, Noami Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Madonna, Cardi B and Kim Kardashian. 

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David Bowie in a Thierry Mugler suit.
Naomi Campbell for Mugler's Spring/Summer 1992 collection.
Cindy Crawford for Mugler's Fall 1990 collection.
Madonna for the cover of Life Magazine in 1985 in Mugler dress.
Cardi B at the Grammys in 2019 wearing the "Birth of Venus" dress from Mugler's 1995 collection.
Kim Kardashian's legendary "Wet Dress" for the Met Gala in 2019. Mugler's first piece in 20 years.

Not only did the “enfant terrible” bring about a new generation of creativity and eccentrism through his magnificent designs, but he also served as a disruptive force to the industry, defying the rigid codes of the fashion world. Very early on, Mugler made a strong point of highlighting the strength of inclusivity by consistently including a wide range of body types but also gender identities on his runways. In the '80s, Mugler cast trans model Connie Flemming and worked with drag legend Joey Arias amongst others. Mugler’s values and legacy live on today as we see trans actors Hunter Schafer and Dominique Jackson walking the Spring/Summer 2021 show. 

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Connie Flemming for Mugler's 1992 Western collection.
Hunter Schafer for Mugler's Spring/Summer 2021 collection.
Dominique Jackson for Mugler's Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

The magic of the Mugler name lies in its ability to fiercely empower women through outlandish designs. By combining fantasy, S&M, glamour and spectacle, Mugler placed the women he worked with at centre stage. He highlighted the fearless feminine features with accentuated silhouettes of cinched waistlines, statement shoulders and cut-outs showing some skin. Year after year, Mugler’s creations remained unashamedly bold and scandalous but still exuberating that chic attitude. By highlighting diversity and cultivating his obsession with the female physicality à travers his pieces, Mugler empowered women by creating the space for self-expression, unapologetic seduction and timeless glamour. 

Let’s take a look at some of Mugler’s most iconic pieces. 

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The iconic Harley Davidson corset created for Mugler's Spring/Summer 1992 collection. Worn in 2009 by Beyoncé for the "I Am..." tour.
A piece from the Autumn/Winter 1995, "Cirque d'Hiver" collection. Seen on the cover of GQ, sported by Cara Delevigne in 2017.
The most expensive couture dress in history. From the Fall/Winter 1997, "Les Chimières" collection, this dress turned women into fantastical creatures.
The Butterfly Dress from Mugler's Spring/Summer 1997 collection, "Les Insectes". Most recently worn by Irina Shark at the "Thierry Mugler: Couturissime" photocall in 2021.

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