Deconstructing Boundaries in Fendi's Fall/Winter 2023 Collection

As an orbital light in the venue lifted, models in the Fendi Fall/Winter 2023 began the show by walking through a light tunnel. This was only the beginning of an illusionary world that the Italian fashion house referred to throughout the Milan Fashion Week show. The house's artistic director, Kim Jones, is known for his blending of themes throughout many of his designs. He was appointed Fendi's Creative Director in 2020—the first since Karl Lagerfeld's death. Marking this show as one to watch, Jones knows how to play with references, question norms, and break boundaries. 

Kim Jones references the Fendi woman herself, most notably Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Everything the Fendi heiress wears is uniquely her own—in its styling, its wear, and its appearance. Jones explains, "It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love." In his exploration of her elegance and strong self-expression, Jones draws directly upon this ideal in Fendi's latest collection. Though the collection is classicly feminine, the designer also plays with subtle illusions. 

The collection features masculine tailoring with utilitarian deconstruction, yet the designer morphs these heavy fabrics in dainty ways. Assymetricallity also takes the spotlight in this illusionary show; the first look demonstrates Jones' exploration of this. An asymmetrical V-neck buttoned sweater with no clear tailoring is paired with a structured leather skirt. The model also wears an undone men's tie. The juxtaposition between classicism and unique self-expression exemplifies the Italian fashion house's yearning to deconstruct boundaries, destroy binaries, and subvert expectations. 

Fendi also premiered its newest handbag. The Fendi Multi references the multipurpose sentiment that the brand is so often contingent with. The duality of Silvia Venturini Fendi's design draws upon the house as a whole. She states, "I think what is really nice is the movement of the bag, that it can be two things in one." Illusion, deconstruction, and duality are what Fendi does best.