Exclusive: Designer Efisio Rocco Marras on MAX&Co.’s Pony Ride Collection
We speak to the designer about his collaboration with contemporary fashion brand MAX&Co., a dynamic collection dedicated to women on the move.
Earthy palettes and comfortable everyday wear for women on the go. Enter: MAX&Co.’s latest Fall/Winter-inspired collection, titled Pony Ride. Designed in collaboration with the creative director of I’M Isola Marras – Efisio Rocco Marras, the contemporary fashion brand’s new capsule collection will add vibrancy and life to the dull hues associated with colder weather.
Chosen for his distinct understanding of print and colour, along with his love for horse riding, Marras delivers the very essence of his artistry into that of Pony Ride’s ensembles. He brings forth the juxtaposition of loud colours and plaid patterns in an aesthetically pleasing range that doesn’t compromise on femininity; functional, yet stylish dresses, jackets, and vests that dabble with androgyny.
As the main influence behind the collection, Marras looked to photographer Perry Ogden’s 1999 book, Pony Kids, to inspire his designs as he was fascinated by Ogden’s world of equestrianism. “Ogden has always been a reference and an inspiration for me,” the designer says. “His vision is raw real and somehow, at the same time, gentle and kind.”
He continues: “He has a way of framing the world that resonates with me; the faces, the places, and ponies he depicts bring me back to my childhood and have a sort of aesthetic connection with my homeland.”
The collaboration also came full circle when Ogden photographed Marras' collection once completed. “It was the ideal closure for the collection to be photographed by Perry in his dear Connemara where we had the chance to see him at work,” gushes Marras. “It still feels like a dream when I think of those days!”
Marras’ affinity for horse riding also contributed to the look and authentic spirit helming the collection, influencing the way the pieces all came together in the end. “Horse riding has been my passion since I was 8 years old and I believe that nothing can be done without passion. Therefore, when I found myself thinking about how to approach this collection, it was natural for me to insert some of the codes I am most familiar too into the vocabulary of the clothes,” he explains.
And what can aficionados expect from these references? “Hidden details and explicit references to the equestrian world, such as dressage-inspired cut for jersey jackets and little horseshoes inside the pattern of the lining." He teases: "Those are only a few, the remaining ones are yours to discover!”
When it comes to his creative process, Marras considers Pony Ride a meeting point between his vision and the great historical heritage of MAX&Co.. ”From this premise, you can guess that the visual elements are mixed and matched in an attempt of creating a common world where tartan prints and floral jacquard collide to create a new fresh vision of what fashion can be,” he explains.
“The process is very hard to define and I am that kind of person who’s never finished. If I didn’t have deadlines I would keep modifying, experimenting and playing with the infinite possibilities working with fashion allows you to have.”
One look at the collection and you'll see the distinct balance between the loud and muted colours used for Pony Ride. “As a starting point, I wanted to refer to the Irish countryside. So I began picking colours from the ground, the trees, the bushes and the beautiful fields of Ireland; this was the beginning and the initial thought, but after the first few looks were ready, I felt that something was missing. The collection was ready, complete, but not “punk” enough for my taste.”
“I needed some disruption – something that would clash, some elements that would look “out of tune” and so colours were added. Obviously, they needed to be the most extreme and opposite ones from the toned-down initial palette and fuchsia, bright orange and acid green started to interrupt the colour flow of the collection, creating picks of attention and somehow rejuvenating the whole feeling of the capsule. As with everything I do, I try to give myself the rule to keep it simple and clean, but after a while rules have to be broken and the fun begins.”
Lastly, we asked the designer why he thinks Pony Ride will stand out amongst the rest, considering the sphere of fashion has broadened immensely over the years. “It is so true, fashion nowadays is a concept so broad that is even difficult to be defined,” Marras starts. “Its language is complex and can be declined in infinite ways, its force and consequences are shaping our social structure and economic behaviour.
To him, fashion is more than simply making clothes; it is a political act that defines a designer more than one would want it to. “Pony Ride wants to stand outside of the vicious (or virtuous, depending on where you stand) cycle. The spirit of this collection is light and playful, which is not to be confused with superficiality, and aims to find a space in people's lives where there’s not much to be afraid of.”
Born as a love child, the standard rules of design and fashion were ignored to give space to creativity and freedom in Pony Ride. "Colours are mixed fabrics are matched and new shapes were created in a free-spirited way, there is no geopolitical message or philosophical meaning behind these choices. Pony Ride just wants to have fun and be happy,” the designer concludes.
Selected pieces from the Pony Ride collection will be available in stores at MAX&Co. Takashimaya Ladies' Fashion, L3 (6838 0290) and MAX&Co. Paragon #02-12 (6838 0215) from September 2022 onwards.