Dior's Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 Collection Celebrates the Atelier's Touch

Often when we think of couture, we think of over-the-top extravagance, frou-frou shapes and exuberant, fantastical, avant-garde designs. For Spring/Summer 2022, Dior takes us back to the essence of the Haute Couture and classic, refined, old-school fashion. Amidst surreal scenography created by the Chanakya School of Craft, bursts of delicate, glitzy sparkle, archaic visages, classic, two-piece suits and gowns that hinted of old Hollywood, the art of the atelier was in full display.

The ensembles whisper a quiet, understated glamour, garments dazzled not in voluminous, exaggerated silhouettes or garish, striking hues but in their exquisite craftsmanship. Impeccable fit and tailoring, immaculate, crisp pleating, intricate beadwork and stunning embroidery. In true Dior fashion, an element of fairytale appears in the form of ballet-inspired tulles and Greek Goddess-inspired silhouettes.  

Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has devoted this collection to displaying the bones of Haute Couture’s unique, masterful construction process. Audiences are taken on a journey beneath the surface of couture, revealing how embroidery and embellishments are not simply applique or decorative elements but part of an elaborate design process, intricately, entirely handcrafted by a team of experts. A neutral, demure colour palette of blacks, whites, taupes and greys echo throughout the collection, providing the perfect, classic toned canvases to showcase the sartorial precision of the Maison's ateliers.  

Crisp, classic tailoring with contemporary touches feature heavily in the collection. Reminiscent of Dior's New Look, skirt and blazer twin sets showcase blazers that cut in slightly at the waist to accentuate the female form, while skirts are presented in a shorter, above the knee length for a fresher, more modern feel. The shorter skirt length also contributed to highlighting one of the focal points of the collection, glistening, embroidered tights. The simple, minimalistic nature of a pair of tights helped emphasize that embellishments in couture are not merely stuck on applique, but hours of painstaking work, individually hand-sewn by ateliers.  

Cleaner, contemporary touches also appear in the form of the minimal use of buttons and edgier textiles. A single button blazer styled without an inner shirt is teamed with draped pants creating a sexy, elegant, silhouette. Perfectly blending masculine and feminine themes, the look showed off just the right amount of skin creating a truly powerful statement. Some of the blazers in the collection feature fronts that show no buttons, giving the looks an almost futuristic feel while an ultra-chic, collared cape showcased leather detailing with a silver buckle, adding an edgy-contemporary feel to a traditionally girlish ensemble. 

Beadwork and embroidery sprinkled a subtle, delicate sparkle throughout the collection. The genius of these looks came in its imagery. The light-hued, almost sheer nature of the textile served as almost a semi-translucent "skin" on the garments, allowing for audiences to view the "skeleton" of an atelier's work. The complex, magical beading and embroidery. As effortless and lightweight as couture garments may sometimes feel, each element is hand threaded. These pieces truly showcase the human touch that breathes life into Haute Couture.  

The simple, classic shapes further allowed the intricate sewing to shine and some of the pieces had an air of regal fantasy. Look 48 featured a shimmery champagne-hued princess cut gown that felt inspired by attires such as the gharara, worn by women during the Mughal empire. Look 19 featured a cowl neck, draped front gown with a flowy, body-skimming skirt and look 56, one-shoulder draped gown, both reminiscent of Grecian goddesses. 

Historical touches continue through the collection in a set of dresses in cream-tinged white. The drapey flow of the skirts once again hinted at the dresses commonly identified with Grecian goddesses while a more contemporary shape presented itself in the form of a looser fit at the waist and a more structured top.
 
Look 58 was a particularly clever design, taking the usually gold, strap-like details that adorned the waists of Grecian gowns (to cinch and accentuate the waist) and replicating it in exquisite silver strap beaded embroidery along the neckline that continued to the bust. The looser fit mixed with the armour-like silver created a strong yet feminine image, almost akin to a warrior princess. Look 38 displayed a similar flowy skirt silhouette with a silvery, warrior-princess-like top. This time, with embellishment that resembled a knight's chainmail.

Archaic elements did not end there. Look 53 once again showcased a motif, reminiscent of the Mughal embroidery and look 20, a white two-piece set adorned with a spectacular Egyptian style collar and cuffs. A hint at another powerful female figure, Queen Cleopatra.  

The collection continues to take us through history and the most classic of fashions. A set of boxy top gowns reminiscent of 1930s glamour featured in ethereal, ashy taupes and effervescent silvery golds that had an almost antiqued feel. 

Simplistic cuts featured a demure neckline and slinky, unabashedly glamorous silhouettes including bias-cut skirts that skim the body, gently clinging to the curves. Clearly outlined by the thin, tactile fabrics, the gowns celebrated the female form, displaying yet concealing it at the same time. The concealed yet sensual nature of these 1930s style gowns create an air of mystery and allure that takes you right back to the era of old Hollywood and all the glamour that surrounded the era.