Dior’s Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 22/23 Show Takes a Spin on Lore and Mythologies

At the heart of the Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 22/23 collection lies the semiotics behind the tree of life —- an emblem with stylistic codes that melds all forms of creation created by Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko. As a fundamental archetype in several cultures and beliefs around the world, Maria Grazia Chiuri contemplates fashion through the lens of art, exploring the territory of traditions that appear both enduring and revolutionary. The marriage of folkloric cultures and art forms the main source of inspiration for the Dior collection, creating this bridge between the pluralistic savoir-faire of different cultures, extending an open dialogue to the world. 

Chiuri first encountered Trofymenko’s work at Maxxi, the contemporary art space in Rome, where Ukrainian-inspired folk embroideries were embedded into a painted landscape. Chiuri resonated with Trofymenko’s heritage and craft and continued to support and accentuate the works of the Ukrainian artist. Conceived in a pitched tent in the garden of Musée Rodin, the set was widely decorated with floor-to-ceiling artworks featuring a series of tranquil interpretations of the tree of life, brimming with flowers, fruits and birds.

The branches, trunks and roots of the tree of life came to life through an amalgamation of intricate traditional embroideries made of cotton threads, silk threads and yarns. The beige colour punctuated the runway, from floor-length gowns and capes to reimagined designs of the House’s iconic Bar Jacket. The elaborate patchworks of braids encompassed bronze and black lace and guipure on the dresses, adding a sparkle of romanticism — a signature style of Chiuri’s. Long and airy dresses were deployed in chiffon with a virtuoso interplay of smocked weavings. The pale white palette featured wide silk and cotton embroidered trench coats. Hand-loomed fabrics unveiled irregular textures in the garments, banishing all hems. To continue the legacy of Christian Dior, the Dior rose is readapted into lace patchworks and deeply encrusted 3D-beaded embroidery in an effort to keep with the folk embroideries that became the basis for the collection. 

The collection breathes new life into the social reality we live in today. The tree of life serves as a representation of humanity, it is a calling to spotlight traditions and gestures while recovering a balance — shaping materials and shapes in the space for reflection. 

Discover all the looks below: