Best Looks from Hermès' Fall/Winter 2022 Show
A quiet, powerful allure graced the runway at the Hermes Fall/Winter show, blending the maison's traditional codes of classicism with refreshingly youthful liberation of the female form.
For Fall/Winter, creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski did away with the heavy, weighty fabrics so often associated with the season. Instead, a sensually elegant lightness that whispered of tradition, change and subtle, delicate drama, strutted down the runway.
As brands attempt to readjust, revamp and restyle their image to suit a newer, younger clientele that isn't afraid to show a little more skin, designers have had to strike just that right balance between preserving tradition while staying on top of current trends. Constantly having to keep themselves relevant in a world where tastes are vastly changing from the women of yesteryear.
Vanhee-Cybulski has designed a collection that embodies her vision of the Hermès woman of our times. Keeping the house's equestrian codes and timeless aesthetics that ooze class and elegance, the collection was speckled with a plethora of fun and playful elements that lent a vibrantly fresh edge as well as a new facet to the storied French luxury brand.
Starting with classic black, the collection plays with the idea of illusion through the use of semi-sheer panels, balancing openness and closedness to create modern yet elegant silhouettes that did not lack sex appeal. Cleverly placed vertical stripes elongate the body and flow into perfectly proportioned skirts cut right below the knee in a wonderful blend of the old and the new.
The alluring, semi-sheer stripe motif is also showcased on socks worn over high boots. Nothing is done for the sake of it, this tiny detail, coupled with the tasteful sliver of skin that shows through the pairing of shorter hems with knee-high boots and socks adds another unique element to the notion of showing that extra bit of skin. The looks made a powerful statement reflecting the modern, liberated woman who is not in any way uncomfortable with flaunting her sensuality.
The tones softened as the collection proceeded but instead of a stark, bright white, creamier, off-white tones mingled with beige, almost as if a nod to our contemporary athleisure culture. There was a slight hint of retro-athleisure present. Extremely streamlined, body tight fits were seen accented with coquettish details such as a ruffle-trimmed collar, cape-style coat, feminine shorts and high waisted belts. The collection's recurring theme of shorter hemlines paired with higher socks that featured a mix of opaque and semi-sheer fabric, coupled with the brand's refreshed take on the riding boot was once again vocal points in creating that element of almost coy, girlish sensuality.
Teal, seafoam and pastel turquoise featured on a variety of looks, blending wonderfully with earthy, natural tones of olive greens, browns and taupe. This particular colour palette was another ode to popular trends that have been permeating our current fashion.
The turquoise or blue and brown combination is one that was highly popularised in the Y2K era while the mix of earthier tones with hues of blues and greens evoked an almost bohemian vibe that played right into the boho-chic trend. The unique contrast of these rather organic tones on precisely tailored, immaculately fitted pieces reflected the collection's clever, thoughtful design process of incorporating traditional codes with relevant trends.
Another highlight of the collection was the exquisite range of coats. The ones featured in this set were particularly chic and dramatic yet still presented an element of lightness through the use of refreshing colours and beautifully effortless tailoring. The standouts included a spectacular, jewel-toned, lichen blue coat that presented a delightful new shade to wear for Fall/Winter as well as a stunning taupe-hued, structured, longline coat with a torso area that was reminiscent of the traditional victorian riding coats. This particular coat was a true reflection of how the designs in this very contemporary hinted subtly back to the classy, aristocratic origins of Hermès.
