Demna Goes Back to the Beginning for Balenciaga's Spring/Summer 2025 Show
Demna taps into his childhood memories to go back to his origins as a designer for the maison's latest co-ed collection.
A handwritten message reads: "My earliest memories of fashion start with me drawing looks on cardboard, cutting them out, and making fashion shows on my grandmother’s kitchen table. Thirty-five years later, this show reconnects me to the beginning of my vision. It’s a tribute to fashion that has a point of view." This emotional reflection captures the essence of Demna, creative director of Balenciaga, who unveiled the co-ed Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Over the years, the Georgian designer has demonstrated his ability to honor the heritage of Cristóbal Balenciaga while fearlessly challenging the industry’s norms. This season, however, he takes a step further—returning to his childhood to bring long-held dreams to life.
In a way, this show feels like a homecoming, paying homage to his beginnings while captivating the attention of fashion's elite. Front row seats were occupied by a constellation of stars loyal to the Maison, including PP Krit, Nicole Kidman, Katy Perry—who sported a QR code of her latest album inked onto her palm—and a radiant Lindsay Lohan. Supermodels like Laetitia Casta, Esther Cañadas, Vittoria Ceretti, Ashley Graham, and the iconic Naomi Campbell also graced the event, adding to the spectacle.
The wooden runway evoked memories of the kitchen table where Demna once orchestrated his childhood shows. The collection opened with a series of trompe-l'œil lingerie-inspired pieces, intricately embroidered and knit in jacquard. The looks exuded an unapologetic sensuality—bold yet refined, never crossing into vulgarity. Silk dresses with corseted backs, one of Demna’s signature elements, flowed effortlessly into the lineup, alongside sharply tailored jackets, low-rise bumsters, and hourglass silhouettes reminiscent of the Cristóbal Balenciaga archives. Each piece was elevated with accessories that dared to reference a provocative, red-light aesthetic—think bandage-style sunglasses and sheer headpieces that veiled the face.
Demna has mastered the delicate art of reinterpreting heritage without slipping into cliché. With this collection, he adds an intimate, deeply personal layer to his work—a tribute to the artistic spirit that first ignited his passion. And, as always, it’s his personal narrative that resonates most powerfully, making this show not just a collection, but a triumph.
