A Portuguese Tribute at Max Mara’s Cruise 2023 Runway Show

The strong, powerful and independent women — A message encoded in Creative Director Ian Griffiths latest Resort collection, compassing 51 vibrant looks of voluptuous dresses and teddy coats turning up on the runway. Built around feminism, Max Mara revives the spirit of an unremarkable Portuguese poet and feminist, Natália Correia who played an important political role in Portuguese. Often described as an “unrivalled woman”, the late poet has always been recognised for her provocative and controversial pragmatism in her works. As Griffiths’ muse, he was inspired by the seductivity and unconventional femininity of Correia, translating it into a collection that pays homage to Portuguese culture — from the haunting melodies of fado, music of love and passion to the Lenços de namorados do Minho, "handkerchiefs of lovers".

Set against the lavish gardens of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation in Lisbon, the runway saw sultry sheaths and feminine pieces with fishnet stockings cast over several looks. The House presented below-the-knee skirts, as an ode to the sensual style that Correia embodied at highbrow soirees in the past. Voluptuous gowns reminiscent of the gathered skirts of traditional dress were seen punctuated with Max Mara’s signature teddy coats, readapted in several styles ranging from short-sleeves to jewel embellishments. The show arrived at a crescendo when extravagant pleated silk taffetà echos the look of the famous fado singer, Amália Rodrigues, at whose performances Correia was a regular at, made an appearance on the runway. With dramatic gestures that go from day to night — whether, in the form of a floor-sweeping bustier or corona peeking beneath the hem of a pencil skirt, it reflected Correia’s femininity. 

In harmony with the Portuguese psyche, young Fado musician Carminho graced the runway sporting a black, sleek number. Melancholic Fado tunes accompanied the presentation in remembrance of Correia’s smouldering charisma. Romantic crystal brooches and printed T-shirts rendered with hearts, flowers and doves took notes from the Lenços de namorados do Minho style — embroidered handkerchiefs of love. Each motif, textile and silhouette are carefully thought out in tune with Portuguese cultures and traditions. Essentially, Max Mara’s Resort 2023 collection hopes to deliver a message of passion and power; ’Vai lenço feliz’. 

Celebrities Lee Ji Ah, Ashley Park, Claire Danes and more were spotted at the runway show, gracing elegant and graceful looks.

Here, all the celebrities in attendance at the Max Mara show: