5 Female Designers of Colour that Showed Up and Showed Off in Milan

Starting her fashion training in India’s western city of Ahmedabad, Sheetal Shah moved to Italy for an internship where she thoroughly expanded her textile design and sartorial skills. During the first Italian lockdown in 2020, Shah launched her brand in which she blends craftsmanship drawn from her native country and Italian experiences in the industry to her cultural identity as a celebration of her Indian roots.

Influenced by the countries and cultures she’s experienced personally while also being fascinated by non-gendered pieces, Shah delivers a unique unisex style. The inspiration behind her Fall collection is drawn from the carefree ethos of the '70s and is reflected through bell-bottom pants, vests and cropped shirts dyed with sustainable techniques such as turmeric and madder dyes for example. To further pay homage to her native country, Shah refers to India’s mattress fluffers’ technique to create her quilted workwear jackets.

Moroccan born, Zineb Hazim, is committed to fighting the stereotypes that Muslim women must face. Her journey in fashion began when she decided to quit her top position at an American company’s subsidiary in Italy and pursue her dream to launch a namesake fashion brand. Her brand draws from Arab traditional dressing, Hazim seeks to give a new perspective on fashion for Muslim women.

Called “Ayab Street Couture”, Hazim’s fall 2022 collection is inspired by Arab princesses travelling internationally, notably by prominent personalities from Arab countries travelling to Milan. The collection includes abaya tunics that are updated with unusual fabrics such as tweed, denim, cotton and embellished with sequins. The goal being: To offer Muslim women clothing that reflects their culture with more of a fashion sensibility.

Nyny Ryke Goungou is a Togo native who commenced her adventure with fashion at a young age when she started sewing her first dresses as a ballerina. She launched her brand in 2016 and has since made it her goal to work with Togo companies and artisans to honour her native country’s textile tradition and exalt the Kentè handwoven fabric.

A bright fabric with multiple patterns boasting geometric shapes and gallant designs. Goungou describes her Fall 2022 collection as “ethnic nostalgia” and nods to '80s designs. The collection features tulle dresses worn over leggings in the same fabric yet embellished with dangling macramé threads, which are also available on the Kentè blazers. 

Cuban native, Romy Calzado has a penchant for textile design. Having worked in fashion most of her career, she developed a strong passion for prints. Through her brand, Romy Calzado named after herself, the young designer wishes to refute the misconception that tropical and Caribbean designs must always demonstrate that flamboyant aesthetic with floral or similar prints. Her Fall 2022 collection titled “Cosmic Beauty”, takes inspiration from some futuristic and space-like outfits with strong and pointy shoulders. Peppered with leather inserts, knot and ribbon embellishments, the collection also includes short dresses with puffer sleeves. 

Of Haitian descent but based in Italy, Judith Borsetto is an accessories designer specialising in footwear. Her designs are typically filled with bold and flamboyant details which she is now starting to adapt into handbags and ready to wear garments.

For her fall 2022 collection, Borsetto showcased her signature aesthetic of ruffled and scalloped hems, sculptural shapes and bright colours into a three-pronged collection, which includes trapeze heeled shoes, pony hair and stocking boots that all match the frocks. The three knit dresses demonstrate a more sensual style with side slits, plunging V-necks with jacquard monogrammed patterns.