Breaking Down Guerlain's New Technology with Researcher Dr Quentin

When it comes to breakthrough beauty innovations, Guerlain can be found leading the charge. After all, it was Guerlain that first introduced some of the skincare and beauty products we use daily, including the first commercial lipstick and the concept of scientific skincare. Now, the brand has introduced new technology to its latest skincare line: the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile. 

The range, consisting of just a serum and cream, is formulated with the help of "quantum biology". But what exactly does this entail for the products? To help us break down the science behind the range, we speak to phytochemistry expert Dr Quentin Favre-Godal, Head of the Fundamental Research Laboratory at the Guerlain Orchidarium, about the research process behind the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile collection and the brand's latest Gold Quantum™ technology.

With your background in pharmaceutical science and years of research on orchids, how do you typically lend your expertise to Guerlain? 

Overall, the expertise of a phytochemist lies in the in-depth knowledge of plant chemistry, including the identification, isolation, structural analysis, and bioactivity assessment of natural product-derived compounds. Each plant is a complex matrix of natural compounds, with some, unique to a species or an organ. Being able to separate and identify the compounds a plant produces helps us to understand its ecological roles as well as its human benefits. Knowing what molecules are being produced and under which conditions allows us to make a rational selection of the plant and the following extraction process.

Tell us about what you’ve observed in the incorporation of science in skincare lately.

The incorporation of multidisciplinary science in skincare is rapidly increasing. Bioinformatics tools are being developed for annotation technic; biotechnology and green chemistry to develop innovating ingredients; microbiome expertise to study the skin microbiome; and delivery systems for penetration and targeted action. Each of these domains must be adapted to the cosmetic specificities and the complexity of human skin.

With your knowledge, how do orchids help promote the longevity of a youthful-looking appearance?

Orchidaceae represent around 30000 to 35000 species worldwide distributed. They have unique biology to respond to the variety of environmental conditions they are facing. As a result, they produce very diverse molecules. There is still a lot to uncover. Every year, new molecules are being discovered, deciphering a bit more Orchid uniqueness. Among these molecules, some are found to act on different biological pathways linked to functional young skin cells' longevity. Included in skin care formulas, they participate to have a cosmetic efficacy on visible skin ageing, such as firmness, elasticity, luminosity, and homogeneity, and consequently, a more youthful appearance.

What was something you prioritised when formulating the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile skincare line?

Our goal is to offer our consumers the best-performing, most sensorial products possible. That's why we combined our orchid-based technology with other cosmetic ingredients in innovative formulas.

How would you explain Nobile’s Gold Quantum™ technology to someone unfamiliar with the concept? How did quantum biology originally come into play when formulating the range?

Quantum biology is the study of quantum phenomena such as UPE (ultra-weak photon emission) that occur at a cellular level. The field of quantum biology is a recent and recognised field of investigation. It has been discovered that living cells emit particles much smaller than molecules, known as photons or UPE. These photons are the elementary constituents of light. Our researchers have conducted work on human skin cells in collaboration with a team of biophysicists at Palacky University. This team has the expertise and technological instruments to measure UPE of biological materials.

Firstly, we found significant differences in UPE between young and old (senescent) human skin cells (fibroblasts). These differences have also been demonstrated to be magnified when the cells are subjected to oxidative stress. A summary of the results was published for the American Society of Cell Biology (ASCB) conference, which took place in Boston from 2 to 6 December 2023.

Secondly, we discovered, in vitro, the role of a biotechnological extract of a specific orchid, Dendrobium nobile. This extract, also included in our formulas, can re-establish the UPE of an aged cell to a level close to that of a young cell, under conditions of oxidative stress.

Breakthrough technology aside, what else makes this range unique from other anti-ageing products out there?

The performance based on the improvement of youthfulness signs combined to factor light and sensoriality is unique. The clinical and instrumental measurements carried out on the range (a serum and a cream) demonstrate improvement in ten signs of youthfulness and six factors of light.